Page 4-1
WINDING THE WARP
When winding the warp on from the back, i.e., with the warp spread out
in back of the loom, turn the crank in a clockwise direction so that the
warp comes in from the bottom.
Remember, wind the warp on
tightly
under a lot of tension. This will
vary with each warp material, but a good rule to remember is that the
tension of the wound on warp must be greater than the tension during
the weaving operation. You will need one person to hold a warp under
tension on the back and one person to wind the warp on the beam using a
handle. The person winding the warp can also insert the paper. For a
wide, heavy warp, several helpers may be required.
If you have to do it yourself, you can use the jerking method. Make one
turn around with your beam crank and then go to the back of the loom
and jerk one section at a time to make the warp that is already on the
beam tight. The idea of this method is that the warp does not need to be
under tension all the time, but the part that is on the beam has to be
tight. Make another turn, go to the back of the loom and jerk all the
sections again and so on. If you have a wide warp, you might need to do
up to ten jerking motions after each turn.
THREADING CROSS
When you come to the end of your warp, insert lease sticks in your
threading cross.
Now remove the ties from each individual threading cross and spread the
warp out on the sticks.
REMOVING THE RADDLE
When the warping is completed, free the warp from the raddle. If you
have an AVL raddle, first untie the security strings, lift the raddle top off,
and remove the warp from the raddle. Afterwards, replace the top on
the raddle and leave it in its place on the back of the loom if so desired as
it will not interfere with the weaving process. Then be sure to bring the
end of the warp around the separation roller so that it now travels into
the loom.
