Dry Stove Installation Guide
Chimneys should be as straight as possible.
Horizontal runs should be
avoided except where the rear outlet of the appliance is used, in which case
the horizontal section should not exceed 150mm in length.
If necessary a
combination of 45° and 90° bends can be used as long as the sum of their
angles is not greater then 180° in total. i.e four 45° bends, or two 45° and a 90°
bend.
If the stove appears to be working hard but produces very little output to
the room it is likely that excess draw is present in the chimney, and that heat is
being sucked out of the appliance and up the chimney. If this is the case we
recommend the fitting of a draught stabiliser in preference to a flue damper,
in the interest of safety and efficiency.
5
Installing the Stove
To make the stove easier to manoeuvre (and safer) we recommend you
remove the following parts which can then be refitted when the stove is in its
final position:
•
Grate Bars
•
Liners
•
Door (To help prevent the glass from breaking)
•
Operating Tool
•
Ash pan
•
Throat Plate
5.1
Removing the door
Open the door so that it’s perpendicular to the stove body and then carefully
lift the stove door upwards off its hinges. To replace the door reverse the
instructions above.
5.2
Removing the throat plate and liners
The throat plate rests on liners and (in some models) a tertiary air bar.
With the fire door removed or open push up on the throat plate with the palm
of one hand. With the other, remove the side liners and then lower the throat
plate forward. It is easier to lower one side of the throat plate first to help remove
it from its position and to allow it to fit through the opening of the stove. Once
the throat plate has been removed you can also remove the rear liner(s).
BK545 Rev06
6