19
Operational Conditions
Condensation
Moisture from the products of combustion condenses on
the tank surface and the outside jacket of the water heater
and forms drops of water which may fall onto the burner or
other hot surfaces. This will produce a “sizzling” or “frying”
noise.
This condensation is normal and should not be
confused with a leaking tank.
Condensation may increase
or decrease at different times of the year.
High efficient energy saver water heaters will produce larger
amounts of condensation on initial start-up or when a large
amount of hot water is being used.
Do not confuse this
with a “tank leak”.
Once the water reaches a temperature
of 120°F and the tank warms up (usually 1-2 hours), the
condensation will stop.
Important:
It is always recommended that a suitable drain
pan be installed under the water heater to protect the area
from water damage resulting from normal condensation
production, a leaking tank or piping connections. Refer to
“Location Requirements” on page 4. Under no circumstances
is the manufacturer to be held responsible for any water
damage in connection with this water heater.
Water Heater Sounds
During the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or
noises may be heard. These noises are common and may
result from the following:
1. Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during
periods of heat-up and cool-down.
2. Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the
burner area and should be considered normal.
3. Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create varying
amounts of noise and may cause premature tank failure.
Drain and flush the tank as directed under “Draining and
Flushing”.
Smoke/Odor
The water heater may give off a small amount of smoke
and odor during the initial start-up of the unit. This is due to
the burning off of oil from metal parts of a new unit and will
disappear after a few minutes of operation.
Safety Shut-off
This water heater is designed to automatically shut-off in the
event of the following:
1. The pilot flame is extinguished for any reason.
2. The water temperature exceeds 180°F (83°C).
3. Excessive combustion chamber temperatures.
4. The ignition of flammable vapors.
A thermocouple is used to determine if a pilot flame is
present, and will shut off the gas supply to the main
burner and the pilot if the flame is absent. This unit is
also equipped with a thermal switch, designed to shut off
the gas supply in the event the heater has been exposed
to flammable vapors (spilled gasoline or paint fumes for
example), poor combustion caused by a blocked vent or
insufficient combustion air. If the thermal switch opens,
check the flame-trap for signs of high temperature (blue or
black discoloration), and inspect your installation for any
problems with venting or combustion air (See Pilot Light
Troubleshooting Flowchart on page 26). Reset the thermal
switch by depressing the small button in the center of the
thermal thermal switch. Important: Correct any issues
prior to resetting the thermal switch. DO NOT attempt to
disable or modify the thermal switch in any way. Contact
the Product Service and Support Department for service
information at
1-800-999-9515.
A high temperature limit switch or ECO (Energy Cut Off) in
the tank is used to shut off the unit if the water temperature
exceeds 180°F (83°C). The ECO is a single use switch and
requires complete replacement of the entire thermostat.
If the ECO should function, the water heater cannot be
used until the thermostat is replaced by a qualified service
technician. Contact your local dealer for service information.
Anode Rod/Water Odor
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which
will slowly deplete while protecting the glass-lined tank
from corrosion and prolonging the life of the water heater.
Once the anode is depleted, the tank will start to corrode,
eventually developing a leak. Certain water conditions
will cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The
most common complaint associated with the anode rod is a
“rotten egg smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen
sulfide gas dissolved in the water.
Do not remove this rod
permanently as it will void any warranties.
The parts list
includes a special anode that can be ordered if water odor or
discoloration occurs. This rod may reduce but not eliminate
water odor problems. The water supply system may require
special filtration equipment from a water conditioning
company to successfully eliminate all water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because
the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and
calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease the
life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be removed from the water heater
tank every 3 years for inspection. The following are typical
(but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
•
The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8”.
• Signifi cant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or
more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be
replaced. Note: Whether re-installing or replacing the anode
rod, check for any leaks and immediately correct if found.
In replacing the anode:
1. Turn off gas supply to the water
heater.
2. Shut off the water supply and
open a nearby hot water faucet to
depressurize the water tank.
3. Drain
approximately
5
gallons
of water from tank (Refer to
“Draining and Flushing” for
proper procedures). Close drain
valve.
4. Remove old anode rod.
5. Use
Teflon
®
tape or approved
pipe sealant on threads and
install new anode rod.
6. Turn on water supply and open
nearby hot water faucet to purge
air from water system. Check
for any leaks and immediately
correct any if found.
7. Restart the water heater as directed under “Operating
Your Water Heater.” See the “Repair Parts Illustration”
for anode rod location on page 27.
