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FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTMENT
Tighten the front chain by :
Slacken : Nut on right-hand side of gear box top fixing bolt.
Forward nut on the adjusting eye-bolt. (Two or three turns.)
Remove inspection cap from front chaincase,
Screw up the rear nut on adjusting eye-bolt until, with the finger through the inspection
cap orifice, it can be felt that the chain is dead tight. Then slack off the rear nut and
carefully tighten the forward nut until the correct chain tension is obtained, after which
securely tighten the rear nut to lock the assembly. (The correct chain whip is f inch.)
Check the adjustment in more than one position and adjust, as above, at tightest place.
It is important that these instructions to over-tighten and then slack back
are carefully followed.
Tighten nut on gear box top fixing bolt.
Replace chaincase inspection cap.
REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT
(Spring Frame Models)
To provide rear chain adjustment the rear wheel is bodily moved in the rear frame fork
ends which are open ended and slotted.
The rear wheel centre spindle has two cams attached to it. These cams abut against
projections in each of the rear fork two slotted ends. The projection on the right-hand
fork end is adjusted at the Factory and its position is locked by a nut. That adjustment
is provided to ensure the rear wheel is positioned in line with the front wheel and,
once it has been determined during assembly, there should be no necessity ever to alter
it again.
The chainside cam has a hexagonal body to accommodate a spanner and Is turned, for-
wards or backwards, to position the rear wheel so that the rear driving chain is correctly
tensioned. (Both cams turn together.)
The correct chain tension is such that, when the machine Is on the centre stand, finger
pressure applied to the chain, midway between gear box sprocket and rear wheel
sprocket, in an upward and downward direction, allows a total movement, up and down,
of 1
8
". The rear wheel should be rotated to several positions and tests made at each,
because chains never wear evenly and there is usually one position where the chain is
tighter than in arty other. The adjustment of 1
8
" total whip should be set for the tightest
position found.
(When off the stand, and with the rider on the saddle, this measurement is reduced to
about ½" total whip, which is the correct adjustment when on the road.)
To adjust the rear chain
Place the machine on the centre stand.
Slacken nut to right of speedometer gear box.
Slacken exterior nut on left-hand end of rear wheel spindle.
Push forward the wheel so that both cams are in contact with the projections on the
rear fork ends.
Apply adjustable wrench 017249 to hexagonal body of chainside cam, and, while
maintaining a forward pressure on the wheel, to ensure contact of the two cams, turn,
with the wrench, until the chain whip of 1
8
", detailed above, is obtained. Then holding
the wheel in that position, fully re-tighten the spindle exterior nut.
Finally, fully tighten the nut to the right of the speedometer gear box after being satisfied
that the gear box is in such a position that no strain Is being placed on the driving cable.
48
Summary of Contents for 350 1954
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Page 39: ...Illustration 13 Carburetter details in assembly order 37...
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Page 60: ...Illustration 19 Showing Ghost view of TELEDRAULIC leg 58...
Page 86: ...Illustration 37 Wiring diagram 84...
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