The heater(s), contactor(s), and all controls are located under the control console located on the right-hand side of
the kettle. These components are accessible with the control console panel removed.
No special tools are required for removal or replacement of malfunctioning components.
Most electrical component failure can be easily diagnosed by following a logical process of elimination.
The thermostat, and primary coil on the transformer (380, 415,440,480v only) can be tested for continuity. An open
circuit indicates that the component has failed.
It is necessary to disconnect the heater wires from the contactor(s) before testing the heating element(s) for
continuity.
The coils on the low water control relay, contactor(s), secondary coil of the transformer (380 & 480v only), and the
thermostat indicator light can also be tested for continuity; however, it will be necessary to disconnect these
components from the circuit before testing.
Also check the transformer (380, 415,440,480v only) for coil to coil shorting if any control circuit components have
failed. Reference appropriate schematic diagram for model to be serviced.
Heating element failure may be attributed to chattering of the contactor(s) or the low water control relay, cause by
burned or pitted points. Be sure to check for burned or pitted points in the contactor(s), if element(s) need
replacing.
Re-Calibrating Thermostats
If the thermostat is defective or not working properly, it must be replaced (without breaking the seal)
and returned to
Accutemp
. The warranty is voided if the seal is broken or an attempt is made to
recalibrate the thermostat.
See below for replacement instructions of the thermostat.
Primary Thermostat Replacment
1
Disconnect power and remove service panel.
2
Disconnect and mark wire(s) connected to the normally closed position with the enclosed tag marked normally
closed.
3
Disconnect and mark wire(s) connected to the common position with the enclosed tags marked common.
4
Drain water in jacket below the thermobulb location.
5
Remove the 3/8” hex pipe plug, which holds the thermobulb in place in the weld coupling. Pull thermobulb and
capillary tube out of the kettle jacket.
6
Remove the two mounting screws on the existing thermostat from the front panel.
7
Use the existing hole locations for mounting the thermostat. The two outer holes on the new thermostat bracket
are for mounting the thermostat and the two inner holes are for mounting the bezel. With a marker, mark the
hole locations for drilling the bezel holes.
8
Drill holes through the front panel with a #32 drill bit
9
Locate the new replacement thermostat on the inside of the control box where the existing thermostat was
mounted. The thermostat should be mounted with the flat side of the dial stem facing the right side of the unit
and the common pole (“P” terminal) will be on the left side. You will use the #6-32x1/4” round head slotted
screws provided to mount the thermostat in the two outer holes.
10 After this has been completed, Secure the bezel in place with the #6 Type “F” x 5/16” pan head phillips thread
cutter screws provided in the two inner holes which should have been drilled out in step 7. Note: The triangular
indicator marking on the bezel should be in the 3 o’clock position.
11 Reconnect the wires marked normally closed to the normally closed position on the new replacement
thermostat with the piggyback push-on connector (if more than one connection is needed) or a single push-on
connector (if only one connection is needed) as provided in the installation package.
12 Carefully uncoil the capillary tube. Re-insert thermobulb and 2 inches of the capillary tube through the weld
coupling from which the old tube and bulb were removed.
Caution: Do not make any threaded connections
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