Yamaha GTS1000MZ, Руководство пользователя, Страница: 10 / 16

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Manual GTS-1000MZ - EN - D09-GV09020-01
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7.5. Replacing the blades
The blades are blunt when the material isn’t pulled into the machine anymore. The blades should be turned, grinded or replaced . The
blades are sharp on both sides, so you can turn the blades around and use the other side of the blade. When this side becomes blunt,
a new pair needs to be installed or the blades can be sharpened.
To replace the blades, follow the steps below:
• Stop engine.
• Turn the engine swith to the "off" position.
• Remove the hopper and output chute.
• Pull the starter rope until you can see the blades trough the input port on the rotorhousing.
• Unscrew the threaded plug M12 on the rotor house, using a screw driver (Fig. 18.1 and 18.2). Insert the rotor locking bolt M12x50
until you feel it's passing under the blade support block (Fig. 18.3). Screw the bolt further in until the bolt head is touching the rotor
house (Fig. 18.4).
• Now the rotor is blocked, it is safe to remove the blade bolts and the blade.
• Unblock the rotor by removing the rotor locking bolt.
Always use gloves when handling the blades.
• Now repeat these steps to remove the second blade.
• In case of turning the blades, clean the blade thoroughly. No dirt should be on the bottom or top side of the blade.
• Clean the surface of the rotor where the blades should be mounted. These surfaces must be spotless.
• Before mounting the blades on the rotor, inspect the blades for damages. Never install damaged blades. In case of damaged
blades and/or doubt, contact your service dealer.
• Before putting the bolts back, add a little Loctite 243 on the side of the bolt.
• Now the blades can be mounted on the rotor. First tighten the bolts
manually, to prevent damaging the thread on the rotor. Than a tool
can be used to tighten the bolts. Don’t forget to block the rotor be-
fore using tools.
• Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench up to 80Nm for the cutting
blades (Fig 19).
• After installing the blades, check the gap between the blades and
the counter blade (Fig. 20).
The gap should not be smaller than 0.5mm and not bigger than
1.00mm. The best way to check the gap is when the counter blade is
in the middle of the grinded surface of the blade.
This adjustment is very critical for the good operation of the machine. If you experience any trouble during this procedure, you
could also remove the belts. In this case the rotor can move freely.
When the distance between the blades is not according the above mentioned distances, the counterblade needs to be adjusted.
Untighten the bolts from the counterblade, do not remove the bolts completely , just untighten them a bit. Adjust the position of the
counter blade and check the distance between the blades. When the gap is according to specifications (0.5 - 1.00 mm), tighten the
bolts. Check the gap once more. Now put the bolts from the counterblade with a torque wrench up to 50Nm.
Don’t forget to put the caps back on the rotor house.
Don’t forget to re-install the threaded plug back and to fasten it.
When both sides of the blades are blunt, the blades can be sharpened again.
Always ask an experienced technician to sharpen the blades.
Don’t sharpen a damaged blade. Using damaged blades can lead to dangerous situations.
Never use a grinder that doesn’t guarantee a straight sharp edge. Make sure that the cutting edge
during grinding doesn’t become overheated, as this will make the steel soft at the cutting edge.
When grinding, respect the angles shown in figure 21.
When the blades have been sharpened again, and they are mounted onto the machine, make sure
the blade bolts don’t touch the counterblade. In case of doubt, replace the blade with a new one.
Fig. 21
Fig. 18.1 Fig. 18.1 Fig. 18.2 Fig. 18.2 Fig. 18.3 Fig. 18.3 Fig. 18.4 Fig. 18.4
Fig. 19 Fig. 20