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Cut out a foam plug using the same method used for the receiver and servo recesses and
glue back in a 5mm to 10mm (3/16 to 3/8”) slice to form a base. Keep the remainder of the
foam plug for later use.
78.
Cut slits into the top surface of the wing to accommodate the battery lead and servo leads.
The receiver antenna should be kept a little clear (and avoid any crossing if possible) of the
servo leads, battery leads and spar to avoid possible interference with the radio signal from
the transmitter. Cut a slit for the receiver antenna that loops around and then runs up about
25mm (1”) in from the foam trailing edge of one of the wing halves.
79.
Fit the battery pack, receiver and servos into their recesses. Plug everything together and test
that it is working correctly. Make sure the servo arms are centered in the correct position
when the transmitter in on and its trims are neutral. The servo arms should be pointing
directly upwards, or leaning just slightly rearwards. Unscrew the servo arms and adjust if
required. Also check for correct direction of servo travel. Viewed from above, when your
transmitter’s elevator stick is pulled back for “up” control, both servo arms should move
forwards (towards the leading edge of the wing), and both servo arms should move
backwards when “down” control is applied. When your transmitter’s aileron stick is moved
to the right for “right roll” control, the right servo arm should move forwards and the left
servo arm backwards, and opposite when “left roll” control is applied.
80.
Perform a “range check” for your radio equipment now. You should be able to control the
servos smoothly from 10 paces away with your transmitter’s aerial retracted (not extended at
all).
81.
Once you are satisfied that your radio equipment is functioning correctly it’s time to start
building it into your glider. Soon retrieval of radio equipment will require surgery on your
glider so it is best to make any necessary adjustments or repairs now. Also keep in mind that
you will need to have access to a means of charging your receiver’s battery pack once it is
embedded into the glider. This can be by means of a special switch with charging socket or
as simple as having access to the battery pack’s plug (perhaps just having it plug into an
exposed socket of your receiver).
82.
Coil up the excess length in the leads and insert them (along with the electronic elevon
mixer if used) into the recess you made next to the receiver. Slice off an appropriate
thickness from the top of the remains of this foam plug to form a lid and glue it in place
flush with the top surface of the wing.
83.
Glue the battery recess’ lid in place over the battery pack so it’s flush with the top surface of
the wing.
84.
If you chose to embed your receiver below the wing surface, glue in the top slice from your
receiver’s foam plug now so that it is flush with the top surface of the wing.
85.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the spar joiner to the bottom surface of the wing at
both the centre and the ends of the joiner. Cut a slice of the appropriate thickness from the
bottom of the spar joiner’s foam plug and glue it in place.
86.
Repeat for the gap between the top of the spar joiner and the wing’s top surface. You may
want to use the scrap piece of EPP you marked out earlier (step #5) so that you don’t have
the gap from the spar slot.
87.
Cut and/or sand off any excess glue from around the foam plugs so that they’re all flush
with the surface of the wing.
TAPING & COVERING
These instructions are based on using 48mm (2”) wide strapping tape with cross-woven fiberglass
filaments, hereto referred to simply as “filament tape”. The instructions outline the process of
