Section 1: Hull Frame Assembly
Note that the hull frames are assembled upside-down on a solid, flat surface.
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1. Locate all the parts shown in the illustration above, along with the stand parts (39 & 40 –
see parts drawings at the end of the manual) and give all the brown, laser cut edges a light
sanding to aid glue adhesion. Glue the stand end plates (39) to the stand nameplates (40) and
leave to dry. Temporarily attach the deck support (10) to your flat building surface using six or
eight small pieces of paper-thin low-tack double-sided tape. This will ensure that no twisting
occurs during assembly of the frames and keel.
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2. Glue frames 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 vertically into their respective locations and leave to cure.
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3. Take the four keel doubler pieces (9a), orientate them correctly, then glue two each side of
the keel (9) adjacent to the marked propeller shaft slot which is indicated by double dotted lines.
NOTE! Parts 9a must be located 1.5mm lower (in the direction of your building board) than the
keel line, this to allow the 1.5mm bottom skin (attached later) to sit flush with the keel. Now glue
one of the two keel treblers (9b) on one side only, directly over the top of parts 9a, lay the keel on
your building board and apply weights to 9b until cured.
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4. Lift the keel, flip it over and, using a razor saw, very carefully cut through part 9 (only) to
open out the propeller tube slot. Be very careful not to cut into part 9b. Keeping the keel
absolutely straight, glue the second keel trebler (9b) in position (to mirror the first) and clamp
until the glue has fully cured.
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5. Dry fit the keel, check it for accuracy, then remove, add glue and refit.
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6. Glue the angled transom (8) in position.
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7. Glue the chine stringers (11) in position from frame 1 to frame 8 and add the gunwales (12),
leave to properly cure, then carefully remove the completed frame assembly from your building
board.
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8. Using the supplied M3 nuts, bolts and washers (4b, 4c & 4d), bolt parts 4 and 4a together
then glue part 4 (only) between frame 3 and 5, as shown. Do not glue 4a to the keel as this will
need to be removed in order to fit the motor at a later stage.
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9. Glue the servo and battery tray (7) in position atop part 5 & 6.
Section 2: Hull Skins and Profiling
Fitting the hull skins is by far the most challenging part of any boat build, however with care and
attention it can also be one of the most rewarding. The old proverb ‘measure twice, cut once’ very
much applies here. In other words, plan thoroughly before you take action. In this instance that
means, carry out a dry run before fitting the parts, know in advance which glue you’re going to
use, work out how you plan to apply the skins and how you intend to hold the parts in place while
the glue is setting. Make sure you have all the required tools and materials to hand and then
…
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10. Locate the three rudder support rings (14), glue them cleanly and accurately together, then
glue them to the inner surface of the stern skin (13), in perfect alignment with the hole for the
rudder tube. When set, glue part 13 in position with the forward edge located exactly half way over
frame 6.
