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Trouble Shooting Guide
STOVE WILL NOT FEED PELLETS, BUT FUEL FEED LIGHT COMES ON AS DESIGNED
Possible Causes
Possible Remedies: (Unplug stove first when possible)
High limit switch has tripped or is defective.
Wait for the stove to cool for about 30 - 45 minutes. Locate the High Limit
thermodisc and press the reset button on the back of it. If the heater will
not restart, check the thermodisc to see if it’s bad. To test if the thermodisc
is bad, you can bypass it as described previously for the POF thermodisc.
Bad Auger Motor.
Remove the auger motor from the auger shaft and try to run the unit. If
the motor will turn the shaft is jammed on something. If the motor will not
turn, the motor is bad.
Auger Jam.
Start by emptying the hopper. Then remove the auger motor by removing
the auger pin. Remove the auger shaft inspection plate in the hopper so
that you can see the auger shaft. Gently lift the auger shaft straight up
so that the end of the auger shaft comes up out of the bottom auger
bushing. Next, remove the two nuts that hold the top auger biscuit in.
Then rotate the bottom end of the auger shaft up towards you until you
can lift the shaft out of the stove. After you have removed the shaft,
inspect it for bent flights, burrs, or broken welds. Remove any foreign
material that might have caused the jam. Also, check the auger tube
for signs of damage such as burrs, rough spots, or grooves cut into the
metal that could have caused a jam.
Loose wire or connector.
Check all wires and connectors that connector to the auger motor, high
limit switch, and the Molex connector.
Bad control board.
If the fuse is good, the wires and connectors check out good, and the
high limit switch did not trip, test for power going to the auger motor. If
there is not a full current going to the auger motor when the fuel feed
light is on, you have a bad control board.
• GLASS “SOOT’S” UP AT A VERY FAST RATE
• FLAME IS LAZY, DARK, AND HAS BLACK TIPS
• AFTER STOVE HAS BEEN ON FOR A WHILE, THE BURNPOT OVERFILLS
Possible Causes
Possible Remedies: (Unplug stove first when possible)
Stove or vent pipe is dirty, which restricts airflow
through the burnpot.
Follow all cleaning procedure in the maintenance section of the owner’s
manual.
Vent pipe installed improperly.
Check to make sure the vent pipe has been installed according to the
criteria in the owner’s manual.
Air damper is set too far in (closed) for a higher
setting.
Pull the damper knob farther out away from the side of the stove and try
to burn the unit again.
Burnpot holes are blocked.
Remove the burnpot and thoroughly clean it.
Air damper is broken.
Visually inspect the damper assembly. Make sure the damper plate is
attached to the damper rod. When the damper rod is moved the plate
should move with it.
Blockage in air intake pipe.
Visually inspect the air intake pipe that leads into the burnpot for foreign
material.
Combustion blower is not spinning fast enough.
Test the RPM on the blower after the blades have been cleaned. The
RPM should be approximately 3000 RPM.
Bad Pellets. (Applies to GLASS “SOOT’S” UP AT A
VERY FAST RATE Only)
The brand of pellets or the batch of pellets that are being used may
be of poor quality. If possible, try a different brand of pellets. You might
also want to try a brand that is made from a different type of wood
(softwood vs. hardwood). Different woods have different characteristics
when being burned.