9) Solder the rest of the pins on both 2x5 pin headers. Some headers require more than a little heat to make the solder flow. This heat
can soften the plastic that holds the header pins together and aligned. For this reason, I like to take a 2x5 ribbon cable connector and
place it on the header pins to keep them aligned during the soldering process.
10) If you are using the PulpLogic style power cable, then strip 1/4” (6mm) of the insulation off each of the three wires (peeling the three
wires apart about half an inch from the end makes the wires easier to strip, too). Insert the wires into the 3 pads labeled TILE_PWR. First,
the White wire (-12VDC) goes into the bottom pad labelled “W”. Next, the Red wire (+12VDC) goes into the middle pad marked “R”. Lastly,
the Black wire (0VDC) goes into the top pad labelled “B”. I like to use a small piece of tape to holder the Futaba cable in place while I
solder it. I find it easier to insert all three wires into the PCB, then solder them in. Be sure to inspect the you don't have any whiskers from
the black, red, and white wires are shorting from their own pad to the one next to it.
The fully assembled modules from Tsyklon Labs have both power connectors installed, but this is DIY, so install what you need/want.
We are getting close to the end, but the next few steps are important, so maybe this is a good time to take a break for a few minutes –
We will see you on the next page!
DIY Build DOC/BOM
PLITKA TRACE
V 1.3
Page 5
