INTRODUCTION
It has been suggested for several years that a control line stunter would
make a fine radio controlled model The fairly recent advent of miniaturized
radio control systems has permitted testing this possibility The Nobler is ideal for
t h i s conversion because of its airfoil planform and structure
The control line Nobler is the winningest of all control line stunters It was
designed by George Aldrich and has been a Top F l i t e kit for many years
The radio control version of the Nobler has been the project of Ed Sweeney
w i t h considerable technical assistance by Fred Marks Many models were built
in developing the Top Flite R/C Nobler kit We think it will follow the
w i n n i n g ways of its line bound ancestor It opens up a new dimension in precision
RC acrobatics
The airplane has a great airfoil with excellent stability, lift, smooth response,
and gentle stall characteristics Thrust and drag forces are near both center of
pressure and gravity It is a relatively symmetrical aircraft — high thrust
line high stabilizer, deep fuselage cross section, and mid wing with symmetrical
air foil This symmetry gives the plane its true neutral stability It will hold any
reasonable flying attitude almost indefinitely
BEFORE YOU START—READ THIS!
These i n s t r u c t i o n s have been c a r e f u l l y developed after building several
prototype models We urge you, in your own interest, not to ignore them Our
aim is to insure that the model goes together in a reasonably quick time and
without annoying snags
Regardless of previous modeling experience follow the directions carefully,
checking them off as you go
Notice the instructions often call for some items to be started before others
are complete This is to allow time for important glue joints to dry properly,
yet not hold up b u i l d i n g progress Also in order to help modelers of less experience,
we have tended to the easier jobs first, leaving those requiring more care until
later as s k i l l i n c r e a s e s .
Do not s e p e r a t e parts from die cut sheets u n t i l you need them This will
save loss or breakage of some of the small or delicate pieces
We are often asked by less-experienced modelers which glues are best
for model construction The answer to this depends upon the particular job
However this is our normal recommendation For all hardwood to hardwood
or hardwood to balsa joints use w h i t e wood glue Titebond is especially good,
as it drys faster than other white glues and is very strong For balsa to balsa
joints regular balsa wood cements are ample for the job although white glue
can be used here too Whichever type you use, remember that excess glue is no
substitute for a w e l l f i t t i n g joint Use a m i n i m u m of glue at all times, and wipe off
excess glue that squeezes out of joints before it sets hard when set it is difficult
to remove, but if not removed it will spoil the covering job
For j o i n t s i n v o l v i n g f l e x i b l e items like foam rubber R/C equipment packing,
contact cement is the only suitable adhesive this should not be used in construc-
tion however because it is not sufficiently strong and is very hard to sand
down properly
One f i n a l word to newcomers to the hobby or modelers of limited ex-
perience Join a club! (You can write to the Academy of Model Aeronautics,
1239 Vermont Avenue N W Washington D C 20005, for the address of
your nearest Club Secretary ) Here you w i l l find indispensable guidance and help
from experienced and f r i e n d l y fellow modelers should you encounter any small
problem in building or flying this model We at Top Flite w i l l do our best to insure
your success, but it is fair to say that nothing can replace personal help or demon-
stration from a good modeler
1
Содержание NoBler
Страница 1: ...BUILDING and FLYING the...
