EMPTYING ASHES
Operate the de-ashing mechanism by
locating the operating tool onto the boss on the right-hand
side of the stove and moving it backwards and forwards a
few times. Use the tool to open the door and lift out the
ashpan. Remember to let ash cool before disposing in
plastic sacks or dustbins. There is no need to empty every
last speck, but ash should never be allowed to build up so
that it comes into contact with the underside of the grate.
EXTENDED BURNING
Allow the fire to burn down to a
low, hot firebed. Set the air control to 'low', empty the ash
and fully fill with hard fuel such as anthracite (smaller sizes
are to be preferred).
CLEANING
Wipe the stove body with a slightly damp cloth
when it is cool, don't use abrasives, metal polish or 'cream'
cleansers as they can scratch the surface. Polished parts
can be brightened using wire wool. Operating the stove for
a few minutes at high output will usually burn-off any
window deposits left by tarry or wet fuels. Severe stains
can be removed with a proprietary cleaner available from
stove shops. After a period of use tiny hairline cracks may
appear on the window, this is not a fault and will not
increase the risk of breakage but is a characteristic of the
toughest and most heat-resistant material currently
available.
OPENING THE DOOR
Tiger is designed to be operated
only with the door closed. Open the door slowly when
refuelling or de-ashing to minimise fume emission into the
room
FUELS
In certain areas you are required by law to burn smokeless
fuels. Different fuels have
very
different burning
characteristics - we strongly recommend that you try a
selection of fuels (or mixtures) to find which suits you best.
WOOD
(Not smokeless) When wood is cut down its cells
are full of water. Burning such wet or 'green' wood wastes
heat in making steam and produces flammable, acidic tars
which will cling to, and can damage, your stove and
chimney. Logs should be dried for at least a year (outside
under a tarpaulin will do). When dry enough to burn, the
ends will split. The fine, white residue produced when
wood burns is not ash, but the remains of cell walls which
can burn if kept hot enough, so don't de-ash the fire until
absolutely necessary.
HOUSECOAL (or BITUMINOUS COAL)
(Not smokeless)
Is raw, natural coal. Inexpensive, easy to light and low in
ash, it burns with great heat and an attractive flame.
However, it makes lots of tarry smoke which will tend to
stain the window and large volumes of flammable gas
which sometimes make it difficult to control.
COKE
(Smokeless) Is natural coal from which the smoke
has been removed (the smoke is distilled to make aspirin,
creosote, ink and all sorts of useful things).
ANTHRACITE and WELSH DRY STEAM COAL
(Smokeless) Are natural hard, shiny forms of coal. Though
difficult to light, they burn with great heat and last a long
time. Choose the 'small nuts' size.
PEAT
(Legally smokeless in certain areas) Is semi-
decomposed woody material found naturally. The nearly
black moorland or bog peat should be dried and treated as
for wood.
LIGNITE
(Not smokeless) Is a natural mineral, between
peat and coal. It lights easily and burns well, though some
varieties produce excessive ash
BRIQUETTES
Are compressed blocks of fuel, generally
able to burn for long periods and remarkable for their
consistency. 'Homefire' and 'Phurnacite' are smokeless
types while other brands are made from lignite, peat or
housecoal.
PETROLEUM COKE
Sold as 'Petcoke', 'Longbeach' and
under various proprietary names, is made from oil waste.
Easy to light and to control, its exceptional heat and lack of
protective ash mean that it
MUST NOT
be used unless
mixed with another fuel. Grate and firebar life will be
drastically reduced when using petroleum coke
HOUSEHOLD WASTES
Some plastics give off toxic
fumes when burned and remember that batteries and
aerosols explode! Tiger is not an incinerator, so only ever
use the recommended fuels and
NEVER
use liquid fuels in
any form
PROBLEMS?
Problems like those listed here are usually due to some
difficulty with the installation, chimney or fuels, so please
check back through this leaflet carefully.
POOR HEAT OUTPUT
Tiger is sufficient to heat a typical
room of up to 100m³. The actual size depends on the
insulation and air-change ratio of the room. To attempt to
heat a larger room will result in excessive fuel
consumption. Use only the recommended fuels. If
necessary seek specialist advice.
LACK OF CONTROLLABILITY
Some fuels give off lots of
very flammable gas when they get hot. Tiger's 'airwash'
sends air into these gasses to ensure that they burn off
safely. This means that some fuels, especially some types
of wood and housecoal, may burn excessively until the
gases have been used up. You can reduce this effect by
making sure that the fire is set to 'low' for a while before
refuelling and checking that the door seals fully.
WINDOW GETS VERY DIRTY
Extended use at low output
can result in stains on the window, which will usually
disappear when the stove is used on 'high'. Reduce the
risk of staining by using only very dry fuel.
DIFFICULTY BURNING FOR EXTENDED PERIODS
If
the fire goes out with fuel still in the firebox, then this is
probably because too little air has been reaching it, try
leaving the air control open a little more. Check that the
door seals are sound and that there are no cracks or gaps
anywhere in the flue. For longest burning, we recommend
hard fuels such as anthracite.
SMOKE COMING INTO ROOM
Fumes are poisonous-
smoke emission must not be tolerated. Causes might be:
•
INADEQUATE SEALS: Check that the flue is fully
sealed to the appliance and throughout its entire length.
Even the tiniest crack or gap can spoil the draught.
•
UNSUITABLE, BLOCKED OR UN-SWEPT CHIMNEY:
The first requirement for correct operation is a sound
chimney. Check the requirements earlier in this
document and in any case of doubt have the chimney
professionally swept.
•
POOR AIR SUPPLY: Lack of air to the fire will cause
smoking and poor performance. Air supply problems
may be worse in certain wind conditions (often
incorrectly ascribed to 'downdraught', which is in fact
very rare), where air can be sucked out of the room. Fit
an air vent, as near to the fire as possible, facing into
the usual wind direction.
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