OWNER’S MANUAL
connected to the amplifier in the same way that the power cable connected to the positive
terminal of the amplifier), the other end has a ring connector installed and is to be bolted to
the earthing point.
Connect the remote cable
(thin blue wire) from the source unit’s (head unit’s) remote
output. This is called a variety of things including “remote”, “aerial”, “electric antenna”, “REM”
and “remote turn on”. To do this you will need to have access to the back of the source unit; it
will need pulled out. Please refer to the source unit’s manual to find the right wire to use.
When the remote cable is attached to the remote output of the source unit, leave the source
unit pulled out for the moment, and run the remote cable to where the amplifier is, down the
same side of the vehicle as the power cable. As with the power cable, try to hide it under
panels and carpet. Slide the connector into the “REM” terminal and tighten.
Connect the audio signal lead(s)
(RCA phono leads) to the “line level(s)” or “pre-out(s)” of
the source unit. The pre-out(s) of the source unit should be in the form of two RCA phono
sockets. Simply plug your lead into the sockets, ensuring red goes to red, and white (or black)
goes to white (or black). Then run the lead all the way to the amplifier. To minimise noise,
please ensure that the audio signal lead is run well away from the power leads. It is normally
best to
run it down the opposite side of the car
.
If the cables are too close, a high
pitched whine can get into the system; this is engine noise.
If your source unit has no pre-outs, it is probable that it is not of sufficient quality to work well
with the amplifier; if it is giving poor quality audio then the amplifier will simply amplify this
poor quality audio. However, if a line output converter is purchased, it would convert speaker
outputs to a line level and enable you to operate the amplifier. As mentioned, the output may
not be of a great quality.
Connect the speaker cable
from your speaker(s) (and/or component(s)/subwoofer(s)) to the
amplifier. Some configurations are illustrated on page 6. It is advisable to cut the speaker
cable to size.
Never connect or disconnect speakers when the amplifier is on
; you risk
permanently damaging the speakers.
Once you have checked that all the connections are good and solid, re-connect the negative
terminal of the battery. If anything goes wrong, disconnect it immediately and investigate.
The amplifier’s power LED should be lit. If not, or the protection LED is lit, please refer to the
“Troubleshooting” section.
Finally, all that is left to do is
calibrate the amplifier and speakers with the source unit
:
1.
If using brand new speakers, do not proceed to the next step until you have “run in” the
speakers by playing music at relatively low-medium volumes for approx 20 mins.
2.
Turn the gain knobs on the amplifier all the way down.
3.
If applicable, select the required filters on both the channel control panels.
4.
Play a CD or similar of music or audio that will be typically played.
5.
Turn the gain control on the source unit to around 70 – 80% of it’s maximum.
6.
Slowly increase the gain knob of each channel on the amplifier until you can hear
distortion, one at a time.
7.
Turn the gain knob on each channel of the amplifier to just before this distortion occurs
(if no distortion can be heard, this is fine!).
8.
Test the system and make any equalisation changes on the source unit or the amplifier
(frequ. knob if using the filters) according to taste, it may take some time to adjust all
the amplifier settings to get the most from the setup.
9.
If any equalisation changes are made, repeat stages 2 to 8 until satisfied
10.
Never exceed the source unit gain that you used to calibrate the system, and
NEVER continue to operate speakers if you can hear distortion as this will
damage the speakers.
Remember:
It is possible for the amplifier gain knobs to be at only a quarter of their
maximum, but the amplifier is actually outputting to its full potential. This could be because
the source unit is supplying slightly more input power than normally expected.
OWNER’S MANUAL
Installation Instructions
If you do not have sufficient experience or tools to carry out the installation, it is
imperative that you seek the assistance of someone who does, or have the amplifier
professionally installed.
TheLoudest.com accepts no liability for any damage resulting to vehicle components when
installing or operating the amplifier. It is the sole responsibility of the user to follow these
instructions carefully and seek professional advice if required.
The TL-1192 2000w amplifier wiring kit is strongly recommended for use with the TL-2093,
TL2095, TL-2094 and TL-2091 amplifiers. It contains the components mentioned in the
installation instructions below. Failing this, 8 AWG power/earth cable and a 30-60A fuse
installed in the power cable is an absolute minimum (see back page for fuse rating details).
The TL-1191 3000w amplifier wiring kit is strongly recommended for use with the TL-2092 and
TL-2096 amplifiers. It contains the components mentioned in the installation instructions
below. Failing this, 4 AWG power/earth cable and an 80A fuse installed in the power cable is
an absolute minimum.
Before starting the installation it is advisable to
disconnect the negative terminal of the
vehicle battery
. This ensures the battery will not short if the wires are accidentally crossed
during installation, and is generally good practice when making electrical changes.
Please be warned that after disconnecting the battery, your control unit (head unit) may
require a code to be entered, some car alarms may also sound. Therefore it is best to disable
the alarm before installation and enable it again after installation is complete.
Connect the power (+) cable
(red cable) directly to the positive terminal of your vehicle
battery by unscrewing the nut on the positive terminal and slipping on the power lead
connector, before replacing and tightening the nut. The TL-1191/TL-1192 wiring kits include a
battery terminal block which ensures a very clean connection. There is a fuse holder and fuse
already installed on this cable if purchased as part of the TL-1191/TL-1192 wiring kit. If not
using the kit, you will need to install one about 60 cm from the battery (check back page for
correct fuse ratings).
This power cable then needs to be run to where the amplifier will be mounted. Look around
the engine bay for a place to run the cable through to the inside of the vehicle. Suitable points
are usually bonnet pull grommets or air intake holes. This positive wire needs to be protected
from damage. Failure to protect it from damage could lead to a vehicle fire. When you have
been able to feed the cable to the inside of the car, try to hide the cable as well as possible on
its way to the amplifier (under carpet, or inside panels).
The TL-1191/TL-1192 kit includes a connector already installed on the end of the power cable;
this will need to be removed for the cable to be connected to the amplifier. Strip the end of
the cable and slide the end into the power (+) terminal of the amplifier, and then tighten.
Competition Pro amplifiers are capable of delivering extremely high power levels. Therefore
tight, reliable and clean power connections at both ends are very important, and ensure
maximum performance.
Connect the earth (-) (or ground) cable
(black cable) to a solid, bare metal point on the
vehicle’s chassis. A common place for this is the boot catch; however any existing substantial
bolt or screw that makes contact with the car’s body near the amplifier is sufficient (connection
must be made to bare metal, so any paint at the connection point must be stripped). If there
is no existing point, you can make one by drilling into the car’s body. This should be done
carefully as a last resort, ensuring that none of the car’s electronics or any other component is
going to be damaged. A clean connection is needed, so scraping away the paint for the
connection is required. The length of the earth cable needs to be a short as possible, the one
supplied with the TL-1191/TL-1192 kit will connect to the negative (-) amplifier terminal (if a
ring is installed already on the cable, this will need to be removed so that the cable can be
