23
NOTE: The saw chain stretches during use, particularly
when it is new, and occasional adjustment will be needed.
A new chain requires more frequent adjustment during the
break-in period. This is normal. See Section for Saw
Chain Tension Adjustment instructions.
•
CHAIN BRAKE / HAND GUARD
All Texas chain saws are equipped with a Chain brake
/Hand guard which stops a moving chain in milliseconds,
helping to reduce the hazard of kickback, a fast upward
motion of the guide bar which occurs when the saw chain
at the nose of the bar accidentally strikes an object or is
pinched in the cut.
The Hand Guard also protects your left hand in the event
it slips off the front handle.
The chain brake is a safety feature which is activated if
pressure is applied against the guard or when, in the
event of kickback, the operator’s hand strikes the lever.
When the chain brake is activated, chain movement
abruptly stops and the power supply to the motor is imme-
diately cut off.
The purpose of the chain brake is to reduce the possibili-
ty of injury due to kickback. The chain brake cannot,
however, provide the measure of intended protection if the
saw is carelessly operated.
The chain brake is disengaged (chain can move) when
the brake is pulled back and locked. This is the normal
running position (Fig. 9A).
The chain brake is engaged (chain cannot move) when
the brake is in forward position (Fig. 9B).
NOTE: The motor will not start if the chain brake is in the
engaged position.
CHAIN BRAKE TEST
Before cutting with your saw, the chain brake should be
tested as follows:
A.
Make sure the chain brake is disengaged (Fig. 9A).
B.
Place the saw on a firm, flat, dry surface that is clear
of any debris. Do not let the saw come in contact
with any objects.
C.
Plug the unit into the power source.
D.
Grasp the front handle (not the Chain Brake / Hand
Guard Lever) with your left hand. Thumb and fingers
should encircle the handle.
E.
Grasp the rear handle with your right hand. Thumb
and fingers should encircle the handle.
F.
Depress the LOCK/OFF button with your right thumb.
Squeeze the trigger with your index finger. (Fig. 7D.)
G.
While the motor is running, activate the chain brake
by rolling your left hand forward against the lever.
H.
Chain and motor should stop abruptly.
CAUTION: Never starve the bar and chain of
lubrication oil. Running the saw DRY or with
TOO LITTLE OIL will decrease cutting effi-
ciency, shorten chain saw life, and cause
rapid dulling of the chain and excessive wear
of the bar from overheating. Too little is evi-
denced by smoke or bar discoloration.
CAUTION: A loose chain can jump off the bar
while you are cutting, as well as wear the bar
and chain. A chain that is too tight can dam-
age the saw. Either situation, chain too loose
or too tight, could cause serious personal
injury.
Fig. 9A
CAUTION: The chain brake should not be
used for starting and stopping the saw during
normal operation.
Fig. 9B
WARNING: If the chain and motor fail to
stop when the chain brake is engaged, take
the saw to the nearest professional Service
Center. Do not use the saw if the chain
brake is not in proper working order.
GENERAL CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS
•
FELLING
Felling is the term for cutting down a tree. Small trees up
to 15-18cm in diameter are usually cut in a single cut.
Larger trees require notch cuts. Notch cuts determine the
direction the tree will fall.
FELLING A TREE:
NOTE: Direction of fall (B) is
controlled by the notching cut.
Before any cuts are made,
consider the location of larger
branches and natural lean of
the tree to determine the way
the tree will fall.
WARNING: A retreat path (A) should be
planned and cleared as necessary before cuts
are started. The retreat path should extend
back and diagonally to the rear of the expect-
ed line of fall, as illustrated in Fig. 10.
CAUTION: If felling a tree on sloping ground,
the chain saw operator should keep on the
uphill side of the terrain, as the tree is likely
to roll or slide downhill after it is felled.
Fig. 10A
A
B
WARNING: Do not cut down a tree during
high or changing winds or if there is a danger
to properly. Consult a tree professional. Do
not cut down a tree if there is a danger of
striking utility wires; notify the utility company
before making any cuts.
•
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR FELLING TREES:
Normally felling consists of 2 main cutting operations,
notching (C) and making the felling cut (D).
Start making the upper notch cut (C) on the side of the
tree facing the felling direction (E). Be sure you don’t
make the lower cut too deep into the trunk.
The notch (C) should be deep enough to create a hinge
(F) of sufficient width and strength. The notch should be
wide enough to direct the fall of the tree for as long as
possible.
Never saw completely through the trunk. Always leave a
hinge. The hinge guides the tree. If the trunk is complete-
ly cut through, control over the felling direction is lost.
Insert a wedge or felling lever in the cut well before the
tree becomes unstable and starts to move. This will pre-
vent the guide bar from binding in the felling cut if you
have misjudged the falling direction. Make sure no
bystanders have entered the range of the falling tree
before you push it over.
FELLING CUT:
1. Use wooden or plastic wedges (G) to prevent binding
the bar or chain (H) in the cut. Wedges also control
felling (Fig. 10C).
2. When diameter of wood being cut is greater than the
bar length, make 2 cuts as shown (Fig. 10D).
•
LIMBING
Limbing a tree is the process of removing the branches
from a fallen tree. Do not remove supporting limbs (A)
until after the log is bucked (cut) into lengths (Fig. 11).
Branches under tension should be cut from the bottom up
to avoid binding the chain saw.
•
BUCKING
Bucking is cutting a fallen log into lengths. Make sure you
have a good footing and stand uphill of the log when cut-
ting on sloping ground. If possible, the log should be sup-
ported so that the end to be cut off is not resting on the
ground. If the log is supported at both ends and you must
cut in the middle, make a downward cut halfway through
the log and then make the undercut. This will prevent the
log from pinching the bar and chain. Be careful that the
chain does not cut into the ground when bucking as this
causes rapid dulling of the chain.
When bucking on a slope, always stand on the uphill side.
1.
Log supported along entire length: Cut from top
(overbuck), being careful to avoid cutting into the
ground (Fig. 12A).
2.
Log supported on 1 end: First, cut from bottom
(underbuck) 1/3 diameter of log to avoid splintering.
Second, cut from above (overbuck) to meet first cut
and avoid pinching (Fig. 12B).
3.
Log supported on both ends: First, overbuck 1/3
diameter of log to avoid splintering. Second, under-
buck to meet first cut and avoid pinching (Fig.
12C).
NOTE: The best way to hold a log while bucking is to use
a sawhorse. When this is not possible, the log should be
raised and supported by the limb stumps or by using sup-
porting logs. Be sure the log being cut is securely sup-
ported.
•
BUCKING USING A SAWHORSE
For personal safety and ease of cutting, the correct posi-
tion for vertical bucking is essential (Fig. 13).
VERTICAL CUTTING:
A. Hold the saw firmly with both hands and keep the saw
to the right of your body while cutting.
B Keep the left arm as straight as possible.
C. Keep weight on both feet.
24
F
C
1/4
3/4
D
3.5cm
E
Fig. 10B
WARNING: Never walk in front of a tree that
has been notched. Make the felling cut (D)
from the other side of the tree and 3-5cm
above the edge of the notch (C) (Fig. 10B).
WARNING: As the felling cut gets close to the
hinge, the tree should begin to fall. When tree
begins to fall, remove saw from cut, unplug,
put chain saw down, and leave area along
retreat path (Fig. 10A).
Fig. 10C
Fig. 10D
G
H
WARNING: Never cut tree limbs while stand-
ing on tree trunk.
Fig. 11
Fig. 12A
Fig. 12B
Fig. 12C
A
2
1
2
1
