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TEKNETICS
Comprehensive Operating Manual & Guide to Metal Detecting
TEKNETICS
Comprehensive Operating Manual & Guide to Metal Detecting
MECHANICALS
BATTERIES
The T
2
uses four AA batteries. Use ALKALINE batteries for best performance. Rechargeable
batteries may be used. Expect 40 hours of service in the field with one set of ALKALINE
batteries.
If you use rechargeable batteries, good-quality NiMH (nickel-metal–hydride) batteries are
recommended. They will usually deliver over 25 hours of service without recharging, but when
they start running low, they die suddenly with little warning.
Always install batteries which are of the same type and the same state of charge. Otherwise
battery life will be determined by the weakest battery, as the good batteries cannot deliver their
power with a dead battery blocking the current.
All 4 batteries are installed with the positive terminals facing upward.
The LCD screen shows battery condition on the right.
ARM REST
The arm rest WIDTH and POSITION are both adjustable.
Arm Rest Width:
The sides of the arm rest can be bent inward and outward.
To best stabilize the detector to your arm and body movement, squeeze the sides of the
arm rest around your forearm. For a very secure fit, some users prefer to bend the arm
rest in tightly against the forearm such that you pry the sides loose each time you place
your arm into the arm rest.
Firmly tighten bottom locking collar to secure lower stem.
10. Attach cable to s-rod with upper Velcro strip
11. Tighten up coil knob to keep searchcoil from flopping.
12. Insert batteries.
The batteries are all installed with all positive terminals pointed upward.
After establishing a comfortable length, firmly tighten the locking collars on the rods to prevent
the tubes from rattling. Rotate the collars a full 270° to engage and lock in place. If you are
unable to rotate a full 270°, use gloves for a better grip.
If the searchcoil appears crooked with respect to the pole, loosen both locking collars and re-
adjust. Hold each of the lower stems in the counterclockwise position as you tighten the
locking collars.
Assembly (continued)
Detecting Activities
Coinshooting
Coinshooting is searching for coins, usually in places like parks, schoolyards, church lawns, and
people’s yards. In most places where coins are likely to be found, there is also a lot of aluminum
trash like pull-tabs and bottle caps, as well as steel bottle caps and often nails. Sometimes there
is jewelry present. You will usually search using discrimination to get rid of the iron and the
aluminum trash, even though this mode will cause you to miss some of the jewelry.
Much coinshooting is done in lawn areas, where digging holes would cause damage to the
grass. We recommend use of an accessory hand-held pinpointer in such cases. Recovering
targets is usually done by first accurately pinpointing the target, then carefully cutting a slit in
the turf with a knife, and tamping it firmly when you are finished. In these situations, you
cannot recover deep targets for fear of damaging the turf, so you can cut down on nuisance
signals by reducing the sensitivity.
When searching on private property, first get the permission of the property owner. Most of
the public places where one is likely to do coinshooting are city, county, or school district
property. There is usually no ordinance prohibiting use of a metal detector as long as you are
not causing damage. Sometimes such ordinances do exist. Administrators and security
personnel often have the legal authority to prohibit any activity they do not like even if there is
no ordinance against it. If there is a metal detecting club in your area, someone will usually
know what areas can and cannot be searched.
Be prepared to always put your best foot forward when using a metal detector in a public
place. Pick up any trash you recover; put it in a pouch or pocketed apron. This way you can
explain that you are performing a public service by helping keep the place free of trash,
especially pieces of metal or glass that could endanger a child at play. Be proficient at
recovering targets without causing damage to the lawn. Explain that whenever you find
jewelry which has personal identification marks, such as a class ring, you make an attempt to
determine the owner and to return it. When someone who questions what you are doing
understands that you are causing no damage and are actually performing a public service, you
will usually be welcome.
Relic Hunting
Relic hunting is searching for historical artifacts. The most common desired objects are battlefield
debris, coins, jewelry, harness hardware, metal buttons, trade tokens, metal toys, household
items, and tools used by workmen and trades people. The most common unwanted metal is iron
(nails, fence wire, rusted cans, etc.), but some iron and steel objects such as weapons may be
valuable. If you are at a site where you may encounter unexploded ordinance, use caution.
Most relic hunting locations are in fields, forested areas and vacant lots where digging holes
will not damage turf grass, so having a detector with good depth sensitivity is important.
Some places are so littered with iron that it is necessary to discriminate out iron in order to be
able to search, even though you may miss some potentially valuable artifacts.
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