3 1
Adjusting the Slipper
should be done after the diff is properly adjusted. If you have just finished adjusting the differ-
ential, loosen the slipper adjustment nut four full turns (e.g., 360 degrees x 4) to return the adjustment to the setting
originally described in the assembly instructions. To make the final adjustments, place your truck on the racing surface
and give the truck full throttle. The slipper should slip for one or two feet at the most. If the slipper slips for more than
two feet, you’ll need to tighten the adjustment nut. If the slipper doesn’t slip for at least one foot, back off the adjustment
nut 1/8 of a turn and retry. If you can’t hear the slipper when you punch the throttle, hold the front of the truck with the
rear wheels still on the track surface and give the truck full throttle. The truck should push against your hand with
reasonable force and the slipper should slip slightly.
Don’t expect the slipper to make up for poor driving. You still have to use your throttle carefully. The slipper will,
however, give you a little help coming off corners and landing jumps.
When the track is really rough, rutty, or has a lot of killer jumps, you may want to consider installing a Hydra-Drive
unit. When using the Hydra-Drive, the slipper adjustment should be set a bit looser so that the spur gear is easier to
rotate while holding the right rear tire. Use the same method of checking adjustment on the Hydra-Drive as you would
on the standard friction slipper. Do not run the Hydra-Drive too loose; it will build up heat and eventually damage the
seals. The standard fluid should be used most of the time in the Hydra-Drive. This kit has a different type of slipper that
cannot be used with the Hydra-Drive as it is currently assembled. However, a Hydra-Drive unit can be fit to the shaft by
replacing the gear and outside aluminum slipper back plate with the Hydra-Drive spur gear, gear plate, Hydra-Drive
unit, spring, etc. A Hydra-Drive conversion kit is also available (part #A3112).
The Most Sensitive Adjustments
,
and the most used by the Team Losi race team, are the number of washers
under the front camber link ball studs and the anti-squat. See these two sections and try to familiarize yourself with the
way that these adjustments affect the handling of the
Triple-XT.
Ride Height
is an adjustment that affects the way your truck jumps, turns, and goes through bumps. To check the
ride height, drop one end (front or rear) of the truck from about a 5-6 inch height onto a flat surface. Once the truck
settles in to a position, check the height of that end of the truck in relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height,
lower the shock collars on the shocks evenly on the end (front or rear) of the truck you are working on. To lower the ride
height, raise the spring collars. Both left and right collars should be adjusted evenly.
You should start with the front ride height set so that the front suspension arms are level with the surface. Occasion-
ally, you may want to raise the front ride height to get a little quicker steering reaction, but be careful as this can also
make the truck flip over more easily. The rear ride height should be set so that the truck comes to a rest at a height that
is right in between having the arms level and the dogbones level with the surface. Every driver likes a little different feel
so you should try small ride height adjustments to obtain the feel you like. We have found that ride height is really a
minor adjustment. This should be one of the last adjustments after everything else has been dialed in. Do not use ride
height adjustment as a substitute for a spring rate. If your truck needs a softer or firmer spring, change the spring. Do not
think that simply moving the shock collar will change the stiffness of the spring; it won’t!
Front and Rear Static Camber Adjustment
is normally set to 1/2-degree negative at ride height. However, adjusting
the static camber can increase or decrease front and rear chassis roll and affect the handling of your truck. Increasing
negative camber in the front will result in an increase in steering and improved handling through bumps. Increasing
negative camber in the rear will result in less side-bite and increased steering. Be careful not to add too much negative
camber or the truck may start to become difficult to drive.
Reducing negative camber in the front will result in a loss of steering, but smooth the steering response. Reducing
negative camber in the rear will result in an increase in side-bite and more forward traction. Typically a setting of
between 1/2- and 0-degrees of negative camber on both the front and rear of the truck will result in a good, solid feel.
Rear Hub Camber Location
is best set according the settings described in this manual. You should start with the
outer hole in the hub. The outer hole will tend to make the truck feel a bit stiffer. This results in the truck accelerating
straighter and also makes it a bit easier to line up for jumps. Moving to the inner hole will typically make the truck go
through bumps better. The inner hole may also give the feeling of more steering. This steering generally comes from the
rear end though. What this means is that the rear end of the truck may swing a bit more — at times even sliding more.
Rear Camber Link Length
can be another useful adjustment. It is virtually impossible to make a blanket statement
for exactly how the length of the camber link will affect the handling under all conditions. The following is our experi-
