Speaker Wire
It is important that good quality wire is used in the installation. Installed speakers generally have much longer wire runs
than normal home theater speakers, hence heavier gauge wire is recommended.
Note:
There are numerous
manufactures in the market offering “high-end” esoteric speaker wire, with claims of exotic materials and superior
performance. Truthfully, this type of product has been found to provide little or no benefit to installations of this type.
Good quality 16AWG CL2 rated in-wall wire, such as MCM #24-9995 (two-conductor), #24-10015 (four-conductor) or
similar, provide outstanding performance in this application.
When running this cable, a few simple guidelines must be followed
•
All speakers should be home-run. That is, wire should be run directly from each speaker, back to the sound
source
•
Speaker wire should be kept away from AC wiring to prevent noise. If AC wiring and speaker wire must cross
paths, it is best to have them cross at a 90º angle, minimizing the common surface area between the two
•
Speaker wire and AC lines should
NEVER
pass through the same hole in studs or joists
Installation
1.
For this type is installation, a stud finder such as MCM #22-9346 is highly recommended. This device will not
only accurately located both edges of the stud, but will provide a warning of nearby electrical wiring.
2.
When deciding on a final location to install speakers, extreme care should be taken to ensure that obstructions
do not exist, such as air ducts, plumbing and electrical wiring.
3.
Locate the studs in the wall between which the speaker will be mounted. Using a pencil, mark a spot directly in
the center of the two studs
4.
Locate the cardboard mounting template, included with the speaker, and using a tape measure, determine its
exact center point.
5.
Poke a small hole in the template, and place the template on the wall, lining up the hole with the spot marked
on the ceiling. Using a level, make sure the template is level and plumb on the wall.
6.
Trace the outer perimeter of the template with a pencil.
7.
Using a wallboard saw, similar to MCM #22-7597, cut around this circumference. This type of saw is especially
useful, as its rigid design and sharp point allow it to “plunge” into the wall with no need to drill a pilot hole.
8.
Remove the rectangular section of drywall from the wall.
9.
Remove the front grille from the speaker to be installed. This is most easily accomplished by rotating the
plastic mounting clips outward, and pressing then towards the front speaker frame. This will cause the screw
heads, behind the grill, to push the grill out from inside. In some cases, it may be necessary to gently pry the
grill from the front. This may be done with a small knife blade or micro size flat blade screwdriver. In this
case, extreme care should be taken not to damage the plastic frame around the grill.
10.
When looking at the rear of the speaker, rotate the four mounting clips clockwise as far as they well go, so as
not to obstruct the frame. If necessary, loosen the four mounting screws, from the front of the speaker, to
allow these clips to rotate freely within their bracket.
11.
Locate the green terminal strip on the rear of the speaker, connections marked ( – ) and ( + ). This is a two-
part terminal strip, with the screw terminals being detachable from the PC board. Unplug the screw-connector
portion of the strip, allowing easy access to the screws. Strip ¼" of insulation from the end of the speaker wire,
insert into the terminal strip, and tighten the screws. Take care to observe correct polarity. Then plug the
terminal strip back into the PC board on the rear of the speaker.
12.
Fully insert the speaker into the wall opening and begin to tighten the four mounting screws. Care should be
taken when tightening these screws. Make sure the screwdriver is secure in the head of the screw and does
not slip out and damage the speaker cone.
13.
As screws are tightened, the plastic mounting clips will rotate clockwise and draw in against the inside of the
wallboard. If using a drill to tighten screws, tighten all four until the speaker frame just makes contact with the
ceiling. From there, it is best to use a hand screwdriver to fully tighten. This will prevent breakage of the
plastic mounting clips.
14.
Once all screws are tightened, the grill may be reinstalled on the front of the speaker.
15.
The other end of the speaker wire is now ready for connection to the sound source
