Handbook for the SXVR-H18
Issue 1 March 2010
17
finished sequence. To use this option, you will need a dark frame, taken with the same
exposure time as a single image from the sequence. This is stored on drive C with the
name ‘dark.def’
Now click on ‘Take Picture’ and the sequence will begin.
Taking and using a flat field:
Flat fields are images which display only the variations of illumination and sensitivity
of the CCD, and are used to mathematically modify a wanted image in such a way
that the errors are removed. Common flat field errors are due to dust motes on the
camera window and vignetting effects in the optical system of the telescope. Dust
motes act as ‘inverse pinholes’ and cast out-of-focus images of the telescope aperture
onto the CCD chip, where they appear as shadow ‘do-nuts’. Most optical systems
show some vignetting at the edges of the field, especially when focal reducers are
used. This causes a brighter centre to show in images, especially when there is a lot of
sky light to illuminate the field.
If dust motes are your main problem, it is best to clean the camera window, rather
than to rely on a flat field to remove the do-nuts. Flat fields always increase the noise
in an image and so physical dust removal is the best option. If you have serious
vignetting, first check whether the optical system can be improved. The most likely
cause of this problem is trying to use too powerful a degree of optical compression
with a focal reducer and you might want to try moving the camera closer to the
reducer lens.
If you really do need to use a flat field for image correction, then it must be taken with
care. It is most important that the optical system
MUST NOT
be disturbed between
taking your original images and taking the flat field. Any relative changes of focus
and rotation etc. will upset the match between flat field and image and the result will
be poor correction of the errors. The other necessity for recording a good flat field is a
source of very even illumination for the telescope field. This is surprisingly difficult
to achieve and many designs of light source have appeared in the literature and on the
Web. These usually consist of a large lightweight box, containing several lamps and
an internal coating of matt white paint, which is placed over the objective of the
telescope to provide an evenly illuminated surface. These can work well, but I prefer a
simpler method, as follows:
Most imaging sessions begin or end in twilight and so the dusk or dawn sky can
provide a distributed source of light for a flat field. However, using the sky directly is
likely to result in recording many unwanted stars, or patches of cloud etc., so a
diffuser needs to be added to the telescope. An ideal material is Mylar plastic
draughting film, obtained from an office supplies warehouse. It is strong and water
resistant and can be easily replaced if damaged. Stretch a piece of the film loosely
across the aperture of your telescope and point the instrument high in the sky, to avoid
any gradient in the light near the horizon. Now take several images with exposure
times adjusted to give a bright, but not overloaded, picture. Averaging flat field
together is a good way to reduce their noise contribution and so recording 4, or more,
images is a good idea.
