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A163-1 Revision 3
b) Install the new cables in the same locations as the originals.
c)
Install the parking brake L-Brackets supplied onto the upper caliper mounting bolt on both
sides of the car. The long leg of the bracket will go against the main mounting bracket and
the cable will pass through the short leg. It may be necessary to trim the length of the long
leg so the bracket can be positioned correctly. Place one 7/16” flat washer under the long leg
of the L-Bracket when bolting it on so it sits flat against the main mounting bracket.
d) With the L-Bracket in place, route the cable through it and lock the cable into the lever on the
caliper.
e) Take the slack out of the cables at the adjuster on the axle. Be sure to re-adjust the cables
when the car is on the ground and the rear suspension is compressed as this will affect cable
adjustment. Always be sure the levers on the calipers return completely when the parking
brake is released or brake drag will occur.
6.
Filling and Bleeding system.
a) It is advisable to replace the brake fluid if the color is brown or muddy. This is due to water
that has been absorbed by the fluid which will eventually corrode the brake lines
b) The simplest and most effective way to bleed your brakes is to use the gravity bleeding
approach as follows:
1)
With calipers installed, make sure all fittings are tight and master cylinder is topped off.
2)
Open one bleeder screw at a time starting at the wheel farthest from the master
cylinder and working your way back around the wheel closest to the master. With
bleeder screw open, observe bleeder. At first the fluid will begin to escape with
intermittent air bubbles. When the air bubbles stop and a steady flow of fluid is
observed for several seconds, close the bleeder valve and move on to the next wheel.
MAKE SURE TO KEEP A CLOSE WATCH OVER THE FLUID LEVEL INSIDE THE
MASTER CYLINDER DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS. NEVER LET THE
RESERVOIR RUN DRY. ALWAYS KEEP IT AT LEAST 1/3 FULL.
3)
After bleeding both wheels and topping of the master cylinder make 20-30 applications
of the brake pedal. If a hard pedal is experienced, no further bleeding is required. If
pedal is spongy, repeat bleeding process until a hard pedal is achieved.
4)
With all bleeding complete, there should be approximately 3/4” to 1” of end play.
5)
Power brake cars will experience a “drop off” of the pedal when the engine is started.
This is a normal condition that signifies the booster is working.
7.
Final Inspection.
a) Once a hard pedal is achieved, all fittings and connections must be inspected to make sure
there are no leaks. Also check the level in both reservoirs of the master cylinder and top off if
needed.
b) Put wheels back on the car and turn wheel by hand to insure that the wheel spins freely and
does not interfere with any brake components.
c)
When you are sure there are no interferences and the pedal is firm, torque the lug nuts and
lower the car back onto the ground. Test drive the car and apply the brakes frequently to
seat the pads.