13.
Slide the long hood assembly (P8) into the walkway (P1) until the tabs stop any further movement and bend the tabs up
90 degrees, as this will aid the soldering process. Note the profile of the long hood should match the orientation on the
floor. With care solder around the end and sides
but make sure they flush with the walkway edge but
NOT
above or
below where they meet.
Do not solder the tabs themselves as they are broken off once you finish soldering around the
long hood. They are only there to help set up the soldering process. You may have to push the long end (P8) around to
achieve this and use clamps or homemade spacers you deem necessary until soldering is complete.
14.
If you are building a Y class in the number range of Y101-Y125 then you need to fold up the battery box cover
(P6)
and solder it directly onto the walkway (P1) and up against the cab (P4) on the driver's side after trial fitting first
and filing to meet the shape you have made the long hood
15.
Solder (P20) headstock skirts to both the front and rear of the walkway paying attention to the fit of the components. The
smaller chamfered edge goes up against the walkway underbody and the fold lines face into the loco
16.
Bend the lower section of the skirts (P20) in towards the loco about 1-1.5mm from the vertical and solder
17.
Turn the etch over onto some foam/cloth for protection and clean the underside of any solder/dags paying particular
attention to the area inside the long hood (P8) where it joins the walkway (P1), the cab area (P4), and the area behind
the stair casing (P2) and headstock (P20).
Final Details
1.
Solder cab rear fireman’s side handrail (P17) to walkway and cab
2.
Solder rear handrails (P18) to the walkway near the rear stair casing. See photo below
3.
Fit a plywood step (P15) on the floor of the walkway behind the rear cab door
4.
Fit a plywood step (P15) on the floor of the walkway in front of the cab front door
5.
Glue lift rings (P23) into the 3 holes provided on the long end roof and shown below in the diagram
6.
Glue the long hood rear wall light (P5) onto the square provided
7.
In the first hole (P14) behind the cab bend a small piece of 0.3mm brass wire into a loose ¼ circle and glue this into the
hole provided and attach it to the back of the cab centrally near the top. In the 3
rd
and 4
th
holes make a very small handrail
2.5mm from 0.3mm brass wire and glue it into place. (See close-up photos below)
8.
Glue the plastic exhaust (P19) into the hole provided in (P12). (See close-up photos below)
9.
Trim the brass pin supplied to just over 1mm in length and glue it into the larger hole of the water tank plates (P13). See
close-up photos below)
10.
Glue the plastic horn (P24) into the remaining hole on the driver’s side at the top of the long hood (P8) so that the single
horn is pointing towards the cab. Enlarge the hole if need be using a no.76 or 0.5mm drill bit and remove one leg of the
plastic horn. An alternative is to drill another 0.5mm hole perpendicular to the original where it crosses the diagonal line in
ten long hood roof plates. (See close-up photos above)
11.
Solder the front handrails (P21) to the cab end ensuing an even spacing on either side of the walkway front edge. The
numberplate lugs protruding down should be just over the edge of the walkway allowing it to be soldered as well to the
walkway. Use Blu-tack as an aid if need be
12.
Solder the rear handrails (P22) to the rear headstock again paying attention to the spacing
13.
There are 8 stair treads (P3) that need to be glued into each of the slots of the staircase units (P2). Start with the top
steps first. After fitting, trim/file off the rear of the stair tread flush with the stair casing
