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To duplicate the color scheme of the Russian, you will need the following materials:
Fokker Red Supercoat Covering
- Top of win and stabilizer, top half of fuselage and fins.
Silver Supercoat Covering
- Bottom of wing and stabilizer, bottom half of fuselage and fins.
Black Supercoat Covering
- Front canopy piece.
1/16" Black SuperStripe Tape
- Rudder outlines on fins.
Decal Sheet
- SIGDKM266B
In general, cover with silver first followed by red. The red should overlap the silver about 1/8". To keep the edges of the red
covering from "squirming" around, try touching the overlap areas with the iron first. Avoid overheating the plastic covering,
which can pull the edges. The covering on the wingtips has to be cut very carefully to look good. Instead of pushing a knife
or razor blade through the covering, try holding the blade against the cut line while pulling on the excess covering. Take
your time!
The fake rudder outlines on the fins are made with striping tape.
You can cut out the pattern from the plans to help keep them equal in size.
Engine Installation
The Russian flew extremely well with an Enya .15 IV TV. This is a crossflow, plain
bearing engine that's ideal for sport models like the Wonder.
It's not the most powerful .15 on the market, but it's built well, starts easy, and
runs reliably flight after flight. It's best feature is the angled needle valve that helps
keep your fingers away from the propeller while adjusting the mixture.
The wood propeller shown in the photo was something of an experiement. It
actually held up very well through several landings, but eventually broke. Stick
with reinforced nylon props and check them carefully after every flight.
Radio Installation
The radio installation in our Russian prototype is just like the "Typical Engine and Radio Installation" drawing on the plan.
The photos show a standard size Airtronics FM receiver and three standard size Airtronic servos. The 270 maH battery
pack is wrapped in foam below the fuel tank.
The throttle servo is taped to the bottom of the fuselage, but the elevator servo is bolted to hardwood blocks which were
glued to the fuselage side.
Notice the switch is mounted way in the back, under the hatch. On this particular model, the charging jack was routed out
the rear fuselage opening.
The aileron servo on this model used a standard straight-across servo arm, which worked just fine. Most of the servo wire is
still inside the wing, out of harms way.