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13
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PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REASON/SOLUTION
The charger is making an
audible clicking sound.
Circuit breaker is cycling.
Battery is defective.
Shorted battery cables or
clips.
Severely discharged
battery, but otherwise it is a
good battery.
Reverse connections at
battery.
The settings may be wrong.
Check the charger settings.
Have the battery checked.
Circuit breaker cycles when
current draw is too high.
Check for shorted cables
or clips and replace if
necessary.
The battery may not want
to accept a charge due to
a run-down state. Allow
charging to continue until
battery has a chance to
recover sufficiently to take
a charge. If more than 20
minutes, stop charging and
have the battery checked.
Shut the charger off
and correct the lead
connections.
Charger makes a loud
buzz or hum.
Transformer laminations
vibrate (buzz).
Shorted Diode Assembly or
Output Rectifier Assembly
(hum).
No problem, this is a normal
condition.
Have charger checked by a
qualified technician.
Short or no start cycle
when cranking engine.
Drawing more than 225
amps.
Failure to wait 4 minutes
(240 seconds) between
cranks.
Clips are not making a
good connection.
AC cord and/or extension
cord is loose.
No power at receptacle.
The charger may be
overheated.
Battery may be severely
discharged.
Crank time varies with the
amount of current drawn. If
cranking draws more than
225 amps, crank time may
be less than 3 seconds.
Wait 4 minutes of rest
time before the next crank
to allow the battery and
charger to cool down.
Check for poor connection
at battery and frame.
Check power cord and
extension cord for loose
fitting plug.
Check for open fuse or
circuit breaker supplying AC
outlet.
The thermal protector may
have tripped and needs a
little longer to close. Make
sure the charger vents are
not blocked. Wait and try
again.
On a severely discharged
battery, charge for 10 to
15 minutes in the highest
manual rate to help assist in
cranking.
Содержание SE-4225
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