Royal Enfield CO, Руководство по техническому обслуживанию мастерской

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ROYAL ENFIELD 350cc O.H.V. WORKSHOP MANUAL
Page 32
Examine fibre ‘tappet.’ See that it slides freely
without having sideplay. See Fig. 49.
Moisten cam lubricating wick with oil. Fit
contact breaker in position on horseshoe shaft
location on end of armature shaft. Make sure the fibre
heel of the contact breaker tappet is located correctly
in its guides. See Fig. 49.
Fit centre screw with locking plate. Tighten and
lock by bending up tags of locking plate.
Refit spring contact arm with backing spring in
its correct position.
Turn armature till points are fully open and
adjust the gap to .012 in. with feeler gauges.
Tighten lock nut at foot of contact screw.
Re-check gap setting.
67. Reassembling and Testing Slipping Clutch.
Key the gear centre assembly to the magneto shaft
Place the gear in position on the centre with bevelled
edge inwards. Insert the friction plate in the recess in
the gear. Thread the spring over the shaft and arrange
so that the locating pin on the centre is positioned
between two fingers of the spring.
MAGNETO SLIPPING CLUTCH
Fig. 51
Thread the locking washer over the spindle and
locate on the pin as was done with the spring.
Screw the locking nut on the spindle with
hexagon towards the gear. Tighten nut dead tight,
using the gear locking tool as previously illustrated.
See Fig. 46.
Test for slip in the following manner:
With gear locked, slip must not occur, with a
pressure of less than 4 lbs. applied at the end of a
horizontal lever 1ft. long secured to the spindle. Slip
must occur at a pressure of less than 10 lbs.
If slip occurs at less than 4 lbs. a new spring must
be fitted.
When the spring pressure has been satisfactorily
tested, lock the securing nut by bending over one of
the tags of the locking washer.
Refit dynamo and pack gears with high melting
point grease.
Fit driving end cover in position with paper
gasket correctly located.
Replace H.T. pick-up, checking carbon brush to
see that it is free to move in its holder and examine
cork gasket for cracks.
Refit earth brush.
SPARKING PLUG.
Type: Lodge H.14 Sintox or Champion L.l0S (14
m.m. thread, standard ½ in. reach).
68. Dismantling, Cleaning and Setting.
If the plug is oiled or carboned up it should be
taken apart and thoroughly cleaned internally. To
dismantle the plug, hold the gland nut (smaller
hexagon) in a vice and unscrew the body of the plug
by means of a tube spanner or ring spanner. Take care
not to lose the metal sealing washer which makes the
joint between the insulator and the body of the plug.
Carefully remove all oil and carbon from the
internal insulation and inside the plug body.
Reassemble the plug and tighten securely so as to
ensure gas tightness.
Carefully reset the gap between the plug points to
.018 in. taking care to set the side points and never to
bend the central electrode. A gauge .018 in. thick
will be found on the small spanner supplied for
tightening the oil pump cover screws.
Note.-In the case of replacement plugs which
may be of the non-detachable type, the only
satisfactory way of cleaning is by sand blasting.
This, however, must never be done to plugs having
mica insulation.
69. Testing.
The only satisfactory test for a plug is its ability
to fire under pressure. This requires the use of special
apparatus consisting of a pressure chamber (with a
small glass window) into which the plug can be
screwed and a source of high tension current.
A plug in good condition with its points set to
.018 in. should fire at 10,000 volts when subject to a
pressure of 40lbs. per sq. in.
CHARGING CIRCUIT.
70. Testing.
With compensated voltage control equipment, the
reading on the ammeter will show only one or two
amperes charge during daytime running when the
battery is fully charged.
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