Assembly tips:
●
Presort the various parts and place similar types in small paper picnic bowls. Resistors in one, capacitors in another, and so on.
This will not only speed assembly, but will also help keep parts from getting lost. If you like, you can also cross check the parts
against the parts list as you do this to make sure you have them all.
●
Be sure to print out the black and white parts placement diagram as this will be easier to reference most of the time. You really
don't have to print out the whole manual if you have a laptop or equivalent on your workbench to view this.
●
Hopefully you already know how to solder and don't need to be told to heat both the component lead and the solder pad with the
tip of the soldering iron. Be stingy with the solder. You don't need much, only enough to fill up the hole. Using 0.020” diameter
solder allows better control then the more common 0.032”.
●
The circuit board is assembled in the order of parts height. Low profile parts starting with resistors are installed first, the
progressively taller parts are added.
●
Q16, the transmitter output transistor will be the very last part mounted and only after the board has been wired into the case and
tested.
●
If you bought the Digital Dial option, it would be a good idea to built and calibrate this first. The Digital Dial can be used to adjust
the VFO coil to put the tuning into the proper range.
Cabinet prep:
●
There is a “Modulation” indicator LED on the board, which you might want to bring out to the front panel. This would require drilling
a small hole someplace on the front, which would best be done now.
●
If desired, paint the cabinet.
●
Tape the red film over the display cutout on the front panel. If you'll be using the optional Digital Dial, snip the corner of the film to
uncover the switch hole.
●
Attach the tilt bail to the bottom of the case and add the four rubber feet bumpers.
●
Attach the decals as described below.
The decals are applied the same as model decals. Cut around each group of text or symbols you wish to apply. It doesn’t have to be perfect
as the background film is transparent. Apply the decals before you mount anything to the chassis. Use the above picture to get the correct
spacing around the holes and cutouts, as it is very easy to do a great decal installation and have a portion covered up with a knob
Thoroughly clean the surface of the panel to remove any oils or contamination. We have found that moving the decals into
position on bare aluminum chassis is difficult, due to the brushed surface, so we advise pre-coating the chassis with the Krylon
clear before applying the decals, and then, after as well.
Trim around the decal. After trimming, place the decal in a bowl of lukewarm water, with a small drop of dish soap to reduce the surface
tension, for 10-15 seconds. Using tweezers, handle carefully to avoid tearing. Start to slide the decal off to the side of the backing paper, and
place the unsupported edge of the decal close to the final location. Hold the edge of the decal against the panel, with your finger, and slide
the paper out from under the decal. You can slide the decal around to the right position, as it will float slightly on the film of water. Use a knife
point or something sharp to do this. When in position, hold the edge of the decal with your finger and gently squeegee excess water out from
under the decal with a tissue or paper towel. Work from the center, to both sides. Remove any bubbles by blotting or wiping gently to the
sides. Do this for each decal, and take your time. Allow to set overnight, or speed drying by placing near a fan for a few of hours. When dry,
spray two
light
coats of matte finish, Krylon, clear to seal and protect the decals, and allow to dry in between coats. All decals come with two
complete sets, in case you mess one up.
6
Manual revised 20160229
Содержание The Survivor
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