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Installation – Retrofit
Existing Shower Replacement
NOTE—In a re-model in which you are not replacing the finished wall surface (tile, or backing material) it is advisable to purchase a
PULSE ShowerSpa model that covers the location of existing valve assembly—either single handle or two-handle type. If your
PULSE ShowerSpa model does not cover this area, you will need to either choose another PULSE ShowerSpa model that does or
make necessary repairs with appropriate materials (i.e. wallboard, tile, fiberglass, etc).
1. TURN OFF WATER SUPPLY TO SHOWER. Typically there is a gate valve where the water main enters the house. Turning the
water valve off at hot water tank does not turn off cold water supply line.
2. Make certain water is completely turned off to both hot & cold supply lines of Shower. Turn shower valve on, both hot and cold,
to verify water supply is OFF. Open a sink faucet in the bathroom in which you are installing the ShowerSpa to relieve any pres-
sure and help adequately drain shower supply lines.
3. Remove handle(s) and trim cover(s) of your existing valve exposing valve body in wall.
4. Locate hot and cold supply lines entering valve. Using a reciprocating saw with sharp metal saw blade, cut existing valve out,
preserving threads of the supply lines entering valve. You should also cut the riser within wall supplying the existing shower head.
Carefully twist and remove valve.
5. Unscrew old shower head from shower arm and then unscrew shower arm from the wall.
6. Water lines must be extended to the outside of wall cavity, 4" on center. For best results, attach 90° brass fittings (available at
most hardware stores) to the stub-outs maintaining ¼" – ½" of space between the fitting and finished wall. The open end of the
90° brass fittings should point down so the supply lines attach parallel to the wall.
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7. Make certain when you connect to the stub-outs they DO NOT INTERFERE with the backside of the ShowerSpa after mounting.
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8. Mark the location of holes for the mounting brackets, making sure brackets are level. For a person 5'8" – 6'2" tall, we recommend
putting the top bracket 65
5
/
8
" from finished floor height.
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The bottom bracket should be positioned exactly 23 ¼" below the top
bracket with the holes plumb to the upper bracket holes. Before drilling holes for bracket, make certain ShowerSpa will rest flat
against finished wall surface at desired mounting height with supply lines connected.
9. Drill ¼" holes through wall surface using a masonry bit. Drill slowly through wall surface to avoid cracking and chipping. Insert
anchors and securely screw brackets to wall. Before connecting hot and cold supply lines, hang the ShowerSpa on wall, check the
height and make sure the ShowerSpa is flush against the wall with a secure fit.
10. Connect hot and cold water supply lines to stub-outs—DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
. Before mounting the ShowerSpa, check fittings
to make sure they are secure. Turn on water and check for leaks. When fittings are leak-free, mount ShowerSpa on wall.
11. OPTIONAL—Seal around body of ShowerSpa with a bead of silicone. DO NOT SEAL BOTTOM.
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Additional fittings may be necessary depending on your specific situation.
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The mounting height can vary depending on several factors (i.e. location of supply lines, old valve access area, interference from
ShowerSpa plumbing, personal preference, etc).