Wax all gel coated surfaces a minimum of twice a year, more often if the boat is stored in the sun.
If due to neglect, the surface takes on a dull appearance that is not restorable by waxing, hand buff
with a rubbing compound such as Dupont No. 7, or power buff with Mirror-Glaze No. 1 then wax.
Caution: when power buffing, use care not to leave swirl marks or "burn" the surface. You may
want to leave power buffing to a professional.
The gel coat on your Pro-Line is approximately 25-mil thick. Minor scratches and deep stains that
do not penetrate the gel coat can be lightly wet sanded with 600 grit, buffed and waxed to remove.
If a deep gouge to the surface occurs that goes all the way through the gel coat into the fiberglass it
must be repaired promptly to avoid further damage. Your dealer is best equipped to handle this
repair and achieve good bonding and color match. There are many different gel coat repair kits on
the market for this use, however, results obtained may not be satisfactory.
For damage to fiberglass that goes deeper than 1/16 inch see your Pro-Line dealer.
Marine Growth
If marine growth is a problem, consult your dealer about an anti-fouling finish for the portions of
the hull below the water line. When moored in salt or brackish water it is recommended that you
haul the boat out and scrub the bottom every 30 days to prevent the accumulation of marine growth.
Windows and Hatches
To clean acrylic, rinse with fresh water to remove as much grime as possible. Use your bare hand
with lots of water so you can feel any grit and avoid grinding it in to the surface as you dislodge it.
When all material that may scratch is gone, use a soft clean cloth with a non abrasive mild
detergent and clean fresh water. Rinse and blot dry with a clean dry chamois.
Grease and adhesives may be removed with kerosene, hexane or white gas ( not gas you burn in
your boat, car or lawnmower ).
Never use solvents like acetone, silicone spray, benzene, carbon tetrachloride, dry cleaning fluid,
lacquer or paint thinner, or any chlorinated solvent, on acrylic, since they dissolve the material.
Stainless Steel / Aluminum
Stainless steel is used on bow rail and deck fittings on your Pro-Line. Stainless is corrosion
resistant but not corrosion proof. If used in contact with sulfides, chloride salts, or rusting metals,
stainless will show rust spots, discolor or corrode. The grain structure of stainless, when modified
by welding processes has increased susceptibility to micro- corrosion (invisible to the unaided eye)
and embrittelment. Proper care will preserve the weld strength and beauty of your stainless:
Always clean frequently with soap and water, most glass cleaners work.
Always protect with a wax or oil film, especially around welds to guard
against micro- corrosion cracking and rust spots.
Always remove rust spots as they appear with brass, silver or chrome cleaner.
Never use coarse abrasives like sandpaper or steel wool, as these can cause rusting.
Never clean with acids or bleaches.
Never permit contact with iron, steel or other metals which could cause
rust or corrosion.
