17
2.
Always use the saw guard, splitter and anti-kick-
back pawls. Make sure the splitter is properly aligned.
When wood is cut along the grain, the kerf tends to
close and bind on the blade and kickbacks can oc-
cur.
NOTE: A caution decal is installed on the guard and
splitter assembly warning of the hazard of misalign-
ment.
3.
The rip fence should be set for the width of the
cut by using the scale on the front rail, or by measur-
ing the distance between the blade and fence. See
Figure 25. Stand out of line with the saw blade and
workpiece to avoid sawdust and splinters coming off
the blade or a kickback, if one should occur.
4.
If the work piece does not have a straight edge,
nail an auxiliary straight edged board on it to provide
one against the fence. To cut properly, the board must
make good contact with the table. If it is warped, turn
the hollow side down.
5.
In ripping, use one hand to hold the board down
against the fence or fixture, and the other to push it
into the blade between the blade and the fence. If the
workpiece is narrower than 6" or shorter than 12",
use a push stick or push block to push it through
between the fence and saw blade. See Figure 26.
Never push in a location such that the pushing hand
is in line with the blade. Move the hand serving as a
hold-down a safe distance from the blade as the cut
nears completion.
For very narrow ripping where a push stick cannot be
used, use a push block or auxiliary fence. Always
push the workpiece completely past the blade at the
end of a cut to minimize the possibility of a kickback.
6.
When ripping long boards, use a support at the
front of the table, such as a roller stand, and a sup-
port or "tailman" at the rear as shown in Figure 27.
7.
Never use the rip fence beyond the point where
the carriage is flush with the end of the rails.
8.
Have the blade extend about 1/8" above the top
of the workpiece. Exposing the blade above this point
can be hazardous.
FIGURE 25
FIGURE 27
FIGURE 26
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