Perlick SDBR48, Руководство по установке и эксплуатации

Страница: 7 / 20

Models SDB/SDP Installation & Operation Manual
Printed in USA 7 0213
maInTenanCe
Stainless Steel Care & Cleaning
General
Contrary to popular belief, stainless steel is
susceptible to rusting. Corrosion on metals is
everywhere. It is recognized quickly on iron
and steel as unsightly yellow/orange rust. Such
metals are called “active” because they actively
corrode in a natural environment when their atoms
combine with oxygen.
Stainless steel is a “passive” metal because it
contains other metals like chromium, nickel and
manganese that stabilize the atoms. Chromium
provides an invisible passive film that covers the
steel surface acting as a shield against corrosion.
As long as the film is intact and not contaminated,
the metal is passive and stainless. If the passive
film of stainless steel has been broken, equipment
starts to corrode and rust.
There are three basic things which can break
down stainless steel’s passive layer and allow
corrosion to occur:
• Mechanical abrasion
• Deposits and water
• Chlorides
Mechanical abrasion
refers to the things that will
scratch a steel surface. Steel pads, wire brushes
and scrapers are prime examples.
Water
comes out of the faucet in varying degrees
of hardness. Depending on what part of the
country you live in, you may have hard or soft
water. Hard water may leave spots. When allowed
to sit, these deposits will break down the passive
layer and rust stainless steel. Other deposits from
food preparation must be promptly removed with
an appropriate cleaning agent.
Chlorides
are found nearly everywhere. They
are in water, food and table salt. Household and
industrial cleaners are the worst offenders.
Preventing Stainless Steel Rust
Use the proper tools. Use non-abrasive tools to
clean stainless steel products. Soft cloths and
plastic scouring pads will not harm the steel’s
passive layer.
Clean with polish lines. Some stainless steels
come with visible polishing lines or “grain”. When
visible lines are present, always scrub in a motion
parallel to the lines. When the grain cannot be
seen, play it safe and do not use a circular motion.
Polish in a consistent straight pattern.
Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride
containing cleaners. While many traditional
cleaners are loaded with chlorides, the industry
is providing an ever-increasing choice on non-
chloride cleaners. If you are not sure of chloride
content in the cleaner being used, contact your
cleaner supplier. If your present cleaner contains
chlorides, ask your supplier if they have an
alternative. Avoid cleaners containing quaternary
salt; it also can attack stainless steel and cause
pitting and rusting.
Keep food equipment clean. Use alkaline
chlorinated or non-chloride cleaners at
recommended strength. Clean frequently to avoid
build-up of hard, stubborn stains. The single most
likely cause of damage is chlorides in the water.
Remember, adding heat to cleaners that contain
chlorides dramatically increases their effect on
stainless steel.
Rinse, rinse, rinse! If chlorinated cleaners are
used, immediately rinse and wipe equipment and
supplies dry. The sooner you wipe standing water,
especially when it contains cleaning agents, the
better. After wiping equipment down, allow it to
air dry. Oxygen helps maintain the stainless steel
passive film.
Cleaning Cabinet Interior/Exterior
CAUTION
NEVER use hydrochloric
acid (muriatic acid) on
stainless steel. Do not use abrasive cleansers
or cloths on any interior or exterior surfaces
or removable parts.
Glass panels may be cleaned using any standard
glass cleaner available on the market.
To clean interior and exterior non-metallic surfaces
and removable parts, wash with a mild solution of
soap and lukewarm water with a little baking soda.
Rinse and dry thoroughly. Avoid getting water on
lights, controller and fan motors.
Cleaning the Door Tracks
Keep tracks clean of dirt and debris. Use a food
grade lubricant to periodically lube the tracks.