Removal of the footstretcher
The footstretcher is removed by unscrewing the three wing nuts and lifting it
out of the boat. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Installing and removing the fin
To install the fin you will need a small tube of silicone caulk, sometimes known as bathtub seal. You can
install the fin without it, it will not leak, but is more prone to falling out.
First, put a line of the caulk down the middle of the fin slot. (Avoid the ends of the slot or it will be more
difficult to remove a broken fin later). Then insert the bow end (pointed end) of the fin into the bow end of
the fin slot. Push the fin all the way down into the slot, and then towards the stern to engage the notch in
the stern edge of the fin. Wipe up any excess caulk.
To remove the fin, push it towards the bow (may be difficult because of hardened silicone) then pull up a
little on the stern of the fin until you can pull it back towards the stern and out.
Note- there are more detailed instructions with pictures on the
Adjusting
The Peinert 25/26 is easy to adjust. Stretcher, height, and spread can be quickly set in the field.
Additional height and pitch adjustment is available by removing the C-clamp or the pin. The boats are
delivered with height, pitch and spread set to standard values for clubs or the size of the individual buyer,
so if you do not want to get involved in rigging you don't have to.
The stretcher is the most important setting. It should be set so that with blades buried at the finish and
moderate layback, the oar handles just brush your ribs. The stretcher is adjusted by loosening the three
wing nuts, lifting the stretcher slightly, moving it to the proper position and retightening the nuts. Be sure
the lugs on the stretcher properly engage the notches on the adjusting strips and that the stretcher is
square in the boat.
The shoes are bolted directly into the stretcher, usually as low as they can be in the boat. They can be
raised (or lowered) by unbolting them and resetting the bolts into a different set of holes. Additional holes
can be drilled on the dimples molded into the stretcher to fit almost any size H2Row pattern shoe. Use a
13/64” drill for Metric 5mm x 20mm long bolts.
Oarlock height is adjusted by moving the plastic washers from the top of the oarlock to the bottom or visa
versa. The rigger is built with the starboard end 5/8“ higher than the port end, so the arrangement of
height washers should be the same on each side if you want the left over right clearance. The oarlock can
be moved a full half inch up or down from the center position. If more change is needed, unbolt the C-
clamp using two 7/16” wrenches (one on the inside of the vertical tube) and move the bolt to one of the
higher or lower holes.
Spread is set by loosening but not removing the bolt on the C-clamp and rotating it in or out. There are
scratch marks on the vertical tube to mark 158 cm and 160 cm spread when the marks are just visible at
the outside edge of the C-clamp.
Pitch can also be set in one degree increments by switching the pitch bushings in the Concept II oarlocks.
Remove the pins as described above, using a 7/32” hex wrench and a 7/16” wrench on the flat at the top
of the pin.
