Page 10
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Construction Manual
Step 70 - Wing Assembly (anti-rotation dowel)
Cut a 1/2” length of the leftover 1/4”
dowel. Insert this half-way into the rear
hole of R0 in one of the wing panels. It
doesn’t matter which one, then glue in
position.
Step 71 - Wing Assembly (test fit)
Now, slide the dihedral rod half-way in
to the forward hole of one of the wing
panels. Making sure that the 3° angle of
the rod is pointing up, slide the other
wing panel on to the rod. Test the fit
of the anti-rotation pin. It may need to
be rounded a bit and sanded slightly to
give a good fit that easily slides in and
out of the other wing panel.
Step 72 - Wing Assembly (wing bolt holes)
With the wing panels slid together, fit the wing onto the fuselage.
Both of the wing dowels should slide into the matching holes of
F3. With the wing firmly slid into place, it’s time drill the wing bolt
holes.
Make sure the wing is perfectly centered on the fuselage, then
using a 13/64” bit, carefully drill through the pre-cut holes in the
WH1 pieces of the wing. Slowly, drill through the bottom of the
wing, down through F8 already installed in the fuselage.
Remove the wing and tap the holes in F8 for a the 1/4x20 wing
bolts.
Enlarge the holes in the wing panels so the 1/4x20 bolts can be
easily slid through the holes.
Step 73 - Wing Assembly (optional wing fairings)
Located on BP3 are several wing fairing pieces. These can be
stacked up and glued to the wing
panels to create a wing fairing. This
fairing will visually blend the fuselage
into the wing, and is optional.
If you choose to install it, mount the
wing to the fuselage. Starting at the
center of the wing, glue 4 of these
fairing pieces to the wing - not to the
fuselage or to the other wing. When
they are in position, and the glue has cured, remove the wing from
the fuselage. It might help to use a small piece of waxed paper to
separate the wing halves and the fuselage from being accidentally
glued together.
Step 74 - Fuselage Assembly (sanding)
This completes the assembly of the fuselage and now is the time to
sand it. Attach the hatch and start sanding
so the sides of the fuselage are smooth
and the edges are slightly rounded. When
it comes to the nose, use the fuselage as
a guide when sanding the block to shape,
first matching it to the fuselage side, but
then tapering it off to a more rounded
shape as you move to the tip of the nose.
Step 75 - Covering
Now it is time to cover the Wayfarer. Remove the wings from the
fuselage and double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready
to cover. Sand as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the
covering/finish of your choice.
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork needed to cut the correct
size logos. You can order straight from them, choosing the colors
that work for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
the QR code on the previous page.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Step 76 - Fuselage Assembly (elevator hinging)
The elevator will be a captive piece once the vertical fin is installed
in the next step, now is the time to make the necessary slots/holes
needed to hinge the elevator to the stab. We recommend 4 hinges,
2 per side and they are glued in with a few drops of thin C/A.
Step 77 - Hinge the rudder
Make the necessary slots/
holes needed to hinge
the rudder to the stab. We
recommend 2 hinges as
shown on the plans and
they are also glued in with
thin C/A. Also you’ll need
to cut the notch into the
rudder as shown on the
plans, so the elevator can
pass through without interference.
Now it’s time to start decide on how you’d like to use the
Wayfarer. If using it for slope soaring you can skip foward to
the radio installation.
If launching it with a high-start, you’ll need to install your own
high-start hardware (not included). Cut into F7 is a hole that
can be utilized to mount the hardware.
If using a motor assist to launch, the following steps will show
how to build the removable power pod.
Step 78 - Power Pod Assembly (U1)
Locate both U1 pieces and all four
of the U4’s from LP2.
The U4’s are glued to the U1
pieces, making sure the holes line
up. Also make sure to make a left
and a right struts, as shown here.
