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Construction Manual
FIFTY ONE
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Step 22 - Wing - Remove tabs.
Now it’s time to remove all the underside tabs that helped hold the
ribs in place. There’s one on the back of each rib. When trimming
these tabs, make sure you cut them away just enough so that the
airfoil shape of each rib is not interrupted.
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Step 23 - Wing - HS
Locate three HSs from BP8.
Just like you did on the top of
the wing, now you'll glue these
pieces in three spots on TE -
between R2 & R3, between R4
& R5, and between R7 & R8.
Once they're glued in place,
you'll need to CAREFULLY sand
them so their profiles match the profile of the ribs.
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Step 24 - Wing - Wing dowel
Locate the 1/4" dowel and cut it into three 2" sections. Set two of
those aside.
Round one end either by hand, or do
it like I do - chuck it up in a drill spin
it like a little lathe. Use sandpaper to
quickly round off one end.
With the wing flipped over, mark where
the leading edge will need to be cut to
allow the wing dowel to be installed.
Now cut the hole into the leading
edge, making cure it is centered on
the leading edge strip and perfectly
inline with the pre-cut hole in SW1B.
Cut the hole a bit undersized, then
gradually enlarge it until you get
a nice, snug fit. Test fit the dowel,
slipping the flat end first through the
leading edge and into SW1B - flush
with the back side of SW1B. Once in
place, glue it to the backside of the leading edge and to SW1B.
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Step 25 - Wing - Hatch rails
Locate the left-over 3/16" x 3/8" basswood strip used in the spars.
Cut two 2-5/16" lengths.
Also cut one similarly sized piece of 1/16" from the scrap area of
BP9, BP10, or BP11.
One basswood rail is glued to the
outside of R3, and the inside of
R4, using the following method.
Place a few drops of glue to the
3/16" (thinner) side of one of the
basswood rails. Place the 1/16"
piece you cut on top of the rail,
then press the rail in position - up
against the lower spar, and making
sure that the 1/16" piece is flush with
the edge of rib. Be sure NOT to glue
the 1/16" piece in place as it's just
a spacer.
When finished, you'll have two rails
in place, set just below the surface
of the ribs - 1/16" below.
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Step 26 - Wing - Hatch frame
Locate left-over 5/16" sq. balsa
strip, cut when creating the leading
edge. Measure and cut a length to
go between R3 and R4 as shown
here. Make sure it is a snug fit and
glue it in place, up against the
hatch rails, you just installed, but
flush with the bottom surface of the ribs.
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Step 27 - Wing - Underside sheeting (part 1)
Using the same techniques use when creating and installing the
upper sheeting, it's now time to install the underside sheeting.
Locate one of the uncut sheets of 1/16" balsa, and the leftover
1/16" piece you cut when making the top sheeting.
Glue these together in the same way as before, then glue them to
the leading edge.
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Step 28 - Wing - Underside sheeting (part 2)
Once cured, bend the sheeting
back over the wing and
temporarily tape it in place (or
weigh it down). You'll now need
to make a cutout in the sheeting
for WH1. Take your time and
don't try to make the exact cut
the first time. Work at it, little
by little until you have a great
looking cutout.
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Step 29 - Wing - Underside sheeting (part 3)
Again, using the same
techniques you used on the
top side, apply some slower
curing glue to the frame - the
ribs surfaces, lower spar and
the balsa hatch-frame (not
the rails). Then slowly attach
the sheeting. Weigh it down
and allow it to cure fully.
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Step 30 - Wing - Sanding
Take a few moments to sand the wing panel smooth. Make sure
to also sand the trailing edge, as well as the root (R1) and tip (R9)
edges flat.
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Step 31 - Wing - T1
Locate T1 from LP2.
Glue this in place by
fully inserting the tabs
in R9, and making sure
it is perpendicular to
the rib.