CONGRATULATIONS!
Thank you for choosing a CM830, CM850 or CM860 loudspeaker from Niles. With proper installation and operation, you will enjoy years of
trouble-free use. Niles manufactures the industry’s most complete line of custom installation components and accessories for audio/video
systems. To see the complete Niles product assortment, visit us on the Internet at:
www.nilesaudio.com
PACKAGE CONTENTS
One pair of CM830, CM850 or CM860 loudspeakers; 1 pair of Aluminum MicroPerf
®
Grilles and 1 pair of cardboard paint mask/hole
cutout templates.
INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS
We recommend using the following tools and material to install your Niles CM loudspeaker:
Before starting the installation, please observe the following precautions:
RUNNING WIRES IN WALLS OR CEILINGS
When running loudspeaker wire inside walls or ceilings, use special jacketed cable (a minimum of 18 to 16-gauge two-conductor CL-2
or CL-3 rated loudspeaker wire) to protect the wire and for fire prevention. In some areas, conduit is also required. For a trouble-free
installation, low-voltage wire such as loudspeaker wire must be run in accordance with the National Electrical Code and any applicable
provisions of the local building code. If you are unsure of the correct installation techniques, wire jacket, or type of conduit to use, consult a
professional audio/video installer, building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.
SELECTING THE LOCATION FOR YOUR LOUDSPEAKERS
The CM800 series loudspeakers are designed to be installed in any standard ceiling. There are two considerations for placing the
loudspeaker; ease of running the cable to the loudspeaker and coverage of the loudspeaker. The best stereo effect will be achieved if both
the loudspeakers are at equal distance from the listener and closer together than the listener is from the loudspeakers. Avoid installing the
loudspeakers near corners to prevent a “boomy” or diffracted sound. The CM800 series loudspeakers will cover an area of a circle with a
16-foot diameter when mounted at an 8-foot height. (See
Figure 1
)
EXISTING CONSTRUCTION INSTALLATION
IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU CUT INTO ANY WALL, REVIEW THE PRIOR SECTION ON LOUDSPEAKER PLACEMENT WHEN SELECTING THE
LOCATION FOR YOUR LOUDSPEAKERS.
1. When determining the location of the loudspeaker cutout, keep in mind that the mounting dogs will extend 3/4” beyond the cutout.
Make sure that you do not place the edge of the cutout directly next to a ceiling joist. Locate the joists using a stud sensor or by hand
knocking. Use the supplied cutout template (remove the largest perforated circle and use cardboard square with hole as the template) to
determine how large of a hole you will need to cut. These templates are packed with your loudspeakers between the styrofoam packing
and the ends of the box.
2. Once you have determined a possible position for the cutout, drill a 1/8” pilot hole just barely through the ceiling (1/2” to 5/8” deep in
most homes) in the center of your proposed loudspeaker location.
BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU
ARE DRILLING, STOP.
3. Cut a foot-long piece of coat hanger. Bend the wire (creating a right angle) leaving 5-1/2” at one end (this allows for the extra width of
the mounting dogs). Poke the “L-shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn it in a complete circle and move it into the ceiling cavity to
make sure you have approximately 4-3/8” of depth. If the wire’s movement is obstructed by anything, fill the hole(s) with spackle and try
another location.
4. If the coat hanger moves freely in a complete circle and you have sufficient depth, hold the template up to the ceiling surface. The
cardboard square with the circular hole is the template. The inner perforated circle within the larger circle that was removed in step 1
earlier is the paint mask. Keep it for painting the loudspeaker later. Outline the circular cutout on the ceiling surface lightly with a pencil.
Drill the starting point of your cut with a 1/4” bit.
5. If you are cutting drywall use a sheetrock or keyhole saw, cut the hole with the saw at a 45° angle. That way the drywall section can be
replaced cleanly if there is an unseen obstruction behind the wall.
IMPORTANT: BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SAW THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE.
IF YOU FEEL EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE CUTTING, STOP.
NEW CONSTRUCTION INSTALLATION
INSULATING THE WALL CAVITY
If feasible, fill the wall cavity with insulation at this point.
MOUNTING THE NEW CONSTRUCTION BRACKET
The optional CM800 BKT can be used with the CM830, CM850 or CM860 loudspeakers. The hole saving bracket enables a faster and
cleaner final installation of the loudspeaker. It forces the drywall installer to cut out the loudspeaker hole for you and provides wire ties for
the loudspeaker wire, reducing the risks of accidental loss or movement of the wire. In addition, it enables you to align your loudspeakers
with other ceiling fixtures with great accuracy since you can really see exactly where the loudspeaker will be. To install the bracket, first
pivot the long wing out until it stops, which will be in a straight line with the short wing. The wings and brackets have centering lines
to simplify placement of the loudspeakers. Screw one side of the assembled bracket with wings to the joist using one of the supplied
screws. Level the bracket. Screw the other side of the bracket/wing assembly to the joist. Two screws on each side make for a very secure
installation. Secure the wire to the bracket using the bracket’s wire tie tab. The drywall installers will cut the drywall to the exact size of the
bracket. (See
Figure 2
)
CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE FOR A FUTURE INSTALLATION
Attach the loudspeaker wire in a loop between the ceiling joists and carefully mark the exact location of the wire on a set of plans. Ask the
general contractor to inform the drywall installers that the loudspeaker wire loops are concealed for future installations.
UNPACKING AND FINAL INSTALLATION
1. Remove the top piece of stryofoam from the box. You will find two loudspeakers bagged in a lower portion of packing. Remove the
loudspeaker from the bag. The metal grille is installed on the loudspeaker and will need to be removed. This is easily done by rotating
the mounting ‘dogs’ out with your fingers and pulling them towards the front of the loudspeaker. This will push the screw heads against
the inside of the grille to work it out of the baffle. (See
Figure 3
)
2. At each loudspeaker location, route the wire to the input connectors, then separate the loudspeaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each
conductor are free. Strip away 1/4 inch of insulation from each individual loudspeaker wire.
3. Press down each spring-loaded connector one at a time, insert the appropriate conductor and then release the connector. Check to be
sure that the connector is making contact with stripped wire and not the wire jacket. Gently tug on the loudspeaker wire to make sure it
is held in place. If not, repeat this procedure until it is.
IMPORTANT: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+) GOES TO THE RED POST AND NEGATIVE (–) GOES TO THE BLACK POST.
4. Rotate dogs back to their original positions so that they do not protrude out from the diameter of the loudspeaker.
5. Insert the loudspeaker into the hole by carefully holding it with both hands and angling it slowly into the hole until the frame is flush with
the ceiling. Holding it in place carefully with one hand, (do not push against the woofer or tweeter) use a cordless drill to begin mounting
the loudspeaker.
6. Tighten the four screws using a #2 Phillips bit. Use low torque and low speed or you may damage the loudspeaker. This should pull the
frame and mounting dog together (sandwiching the drywall) so that the frame is absolutely flush with the wall surface. There should be
no gaps between the wall and the frame.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS! OVER TIGHTENING THEM MAY MAKE THE GRILLE DIFFICULT TO INSTALL
7. Direct the tweeter. The tweeter is directed by gently pressing on the outer edge of the tweeter housing. It will move up to 20 degrees in
any direction. For critical listening, direct the tweeter towards the user’s favorite listening position. For surround sound or low volume
background listening, create more reflections and thus more ambiance by directing the tweeter towards the sidewalls. (See
Figure 4
)
8. Set the Treble level control. (CM860 only) Listen to a well-recorded piece of music at the user’s favorite listening position. Listen for
treble harshness or ringing, particularly when the loudspeakers are placed in a room without carpet. Use the -3dB Treble cut position
to correct. Listen for dull or muffled upper frequencies, particularly when the loudspeakers are installed in an area with thick carpet or
fabric wall coverings. Use the +3dB Treble boost position to correct. (See
Figure 5
)
9. Install the MicroPerf
®
grille. Start by positioning one edge of the grille slightly inside the loudspeaker. Gently work around the
loudspeaker a little at a time until the grille is fully seated. Don’t try to insert the grille fully in any one area, as this will make complete
installation more difficult. Don’t force the grille to fit as you may damage the grille if you apply too much force.
10. Connect the other end of each loudspeaker wire to the receiver (or amplifier) carefully observing polarity.
11. Turn on the receiver or amplifier and test all loudspeakers in the system.
PAINTING THE GRILLE AND FRAME
Each CM830, CM850 & CM860 loudspeaker and flush-mount metal grille may be painted without the need for primer.
1. Install loudspeaker into ceiling or wall following the previous steps 1 - 7.
2. Remove the smallest perforated circle from the cardboard square template. This is the paint mask that protects the loudspeaker from
paint. Gently press it into place inside the baffle.
3. Paint the frame of the loudspeaker.
4. Paint the grille separately from the loudspeaker frame. For best results when painting the grille, use a spray gun or airless sprayer. Thin
the paint to prevent clogging of the grille holes and apply several light coats instead of one heavy one.
5. Gently remove the paint mask after paint has dried by pressing in the tab in the center and carefully pulling out the mask with your
finger. Be very careful not to poke the tweeter with your finger.
6. Finish installation of the loudspeaker following the previous steps 8 –10.
Figure 2.
New construction bracket
Figure 4.
Tweeter adjustment
Figure 5.
Treble Level Control
Figure 1
. Typical placement for stereo listening
Figure 3.
Mounting “dog” rotation
• Cordless drill with 1/4 – and 1/2-
inch drill bits and a 1-inch paddle
drill bit (for drilling through studs)
• Stiff wire, fish tape or glow rods
for routing cables
• Rubber gloves and protective
eyewear
• Keyhole or drywall saw
• Phillips screwdriver set
• Wire stripper
• Stud finder
• Cable ties
• Pencil
• Turn off all system power before
making any connections
• Always wear protective eyewear
when using tools
• Make sure hands are clean before
installation
• Wear gloves when working with
fiberglass insulation
