parts, headset spacers (if desired underneath the upper crown), the
upper crown, additonal headset spacers (optional), and stem (if using a
traditional steerer tube-clamped stem) onto the steerer tube.
5. Mark the steerer tube at the top of the stem or spacers (if using a
direct-mount stem). The steerer tube will now need to be cut to the
correct length. Disassemble and cut 3mm (1/8”) below the mark. Consult
your dealer or mechanic if you don’t have the proper tools to cut the
steerer tube. We do not recommend using a pipe-cutter as it can deform
the steerer tube and make headset, spacer, and stem installation more
difficult.
6. The star nut must now be installed into the steerer tube. If you don’t
have the setting tool we recommend dealer installation of this part.
7. Clean and grease all headset bearings and races to prepare them for
assembly.
8. Now loosely assemble the full upper and lower clamp and steerer
assembly, and the fork bumpers, headset, spacers, and stem (if
applicable). Install the fork bumpers before installing the upper crown (if
applicable).
9. Install the headset top cap into the star nut. Tighten until there is
no play in the assembly. The fork or upper and lower clamp assembly
should rotate freely in the head tube.
10. If you haven’t already done so, install the rest of the fork onto the
crowns. Install the fork bumpers on the stanchions between the upper
and lower crowns (if applicable). Compared to fork travel, there must
be a minimum of an additional 5mm of stanchion showing between
the top of the wiper seals and the lower crown for 29” models and
12mm for 27.5” models (example: 29” with 190mm travel = 195mm of
visible stanchion). You may exceed those values if you’d like to adjust
the geometry of your bike.
11. With the fork height set, tighten the two lower clamp pinch bolts on
each side to 8 Nm. Then, the single pinch bolts on the upper crown (on
each side) to 8 Nm. And finally, the pinch bolt on the steerer tube to 8
Nm.
12. Install the wheel. Insert the axle through the disc brake side dropout,
through the hub and into the captive nut on the non-disc brake side
dropout. Using a 6mm hex tool, thread axle into the captive nut and
tighten to 12-15 Nm. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT-ON AXLE USING
THE 8mm HEX FITTING ON THE CAPTIVE NUT
13. After installation of the rest of the cockpit, install the brake caliper
onto the fork. Adjust your front brake according to the manufacturer’s
instructions.
14. Clamp the brake hose into the provided hose guide and install it on
the fork. Check to see that the brake is adjusted and working properly.
Make sure the brake line doesn’t interfere with any part of the bike when
the fork is compressed and released.
access to the cassette tool interface.
3. Unthread the Ramp Control cartridge assembly from the crown of the
fork using a cassette tool.
4. With the cartridge removed, install or remove Huck Pucks. Use up to
a 4mm hex key or something of similar diameter inserted into the side
of the pucks to tighten or loosen the pucks. Tighten any installed pucks
onto the bottom of the cartridge snugly so they do not come loose over
time.
5. Re-install the cartridge by threading it back into the fork crown and
tighten to 12 Nm.
6. Inflate the air spring as outlined in the previous section. Added Huck
Pucks will require slightly lower air pressure values to preserve the
previous sag level.
The compression adjustment knob is located on the top of the damper-
side fork leg. There are
8 clicks
of adjustment. Your fork comes from
the factory in the first, least damped position.
COMPRESSION ADJUSTMENT
As you turn the dial clockwise, you are adding compression
damping or slowing the forks compression stroke. It is an adjustment
that is subtle, and often overlooked, but can make a big difference
in how your fork performs. Aggressive riders tend to like more
compression damping because it provides a firmer, more supportive
feel. Comfort oriented, less aggressive riders tend to like less
damping in order to maximize small bump sensitivity. Do not confuse
compression damping with spring rate. They are very different
adjustments, and while adding compression damping may make the
fork feel “stiffer”, it is not changing the spring rate.
REBOUND ADJUSTMENT
Adjustments to rebound can be made by turning the red knob on the
bottom of the damper-side fork leg. The total usable range of rebound
adjustment on the Bartlett is approximately
20 clicks
.
Rebound damping is what prevents your suspension fork from
feeling like a pogo stick. It controls the rebound stroke of the fork
after a compression stroke (bump) has occurred. Increasing (turn knob
clockwise) rebound damping slows the rebound stroke of the fork.
Decreasing (turn knob counter clockwise) rebound damping speeds up
the rebound stroke of the fork. Ideally, you want to arrive at a setting
that allows your wheel to track the terrain and not get bounced off line.