MRP bartlett Скачать руководство пользователя страница 3

parts, headset spacers (if desired underneath the upper crown), the 

upper crown, additonal headset spacers (optional), and stem (if using a 

traditional steerer tube-clamped stem) onto the steerer tube.

5. Mark the steerer tube at the top of the stem or spacers (if using a 

direct-mount stem). The steerer tube will now need to be cut to the 

correct length. Disassemble and cut 3mm (1/8”) below the mark. Consult 

your dealer or mechanic if you don’t have the proper tools to cut the 

steerer tube.  We do not recommend using a pipe-cutter as it can deform 

the steerer tube and make headset, spacer, and stem installation more 

difficult.

6. The star nut must now be installed into the steerer tube. If you don’t 

have the setting tool we recommend dealer installation of this part.

7. Clean and grease all headset bearings and races to prepare them for 

assembly.

8. Now loosely assemble the full upper and lower clamp and steerer 

assembly, and the fork bumpers, headset, spacers, and stem (if 

applicable). Install the fork bumpers before installing the upper crown (if 

applicable).

9. Install the headset top cap into the star nut. Tighten until there is 

no play in the assembly. The fork or upper and lower clamp assembly 

should rotate freely in the head tube.

10. If you haven’t already done so, install the rest of the fork onto the 

crowns. Install the fork bumpers on the stanchions between the upper 

and lower crowns (if applicable). Compared to fork travel, there must 

be a minimum of an additional 5mm of stanchion showing between 

the top of the wiper seals and the lower crown for 29” models and 

12mm for 27.5” models (example: 29” with 190mm travel = 195mm of 

visible stanchion). You may exceed those values if you’d like to adjust 

the geometry of your bike.

11. With the fork height set, tighten the two lower clamp pinch bolts on 

each side to 8 Nm. Then, the single pinch bolts on the upper crown (on 

each side) to 8 Nm. And finally, the pinch bolt on the steerer tube to 8 

Nm.

12. Install the wheel. Insert the axle through the disc brake side dropout, 

through the hub and into the captive nut on the non-disc brake side 

dropout. Using a 6mm hex tool, thread axle into the captive nut and 

tighten to 12-15 Nm. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT-ON AXLE USING 

THE 8mm HEX FITTING ON THE CAPTIVE NUT

13. After installation of the rest of the cockpit, install the brake caliper 

onto the fork. Adjust your front brake according to the manufacturer’s 

instructions.

14. Clamp the brake hose into the provided hose guide and install it on 

the fork. Check to see that the brake is adjusted and working properly. 

Make sure the brake line doesn’t interfere with any part of the bike when 

the fork is compressed and released.

access to the cassette tool interface.

3. Unthread the Ramp Control cartridge assembly from the crown of the 

fork using a cassette tool.

4. With the cartridge removed, install or remove Huck Pucks. Use up to 

a 4mm hex key or something of similar diameter inserted into the side 

of the pucks to tighten or loosen the pucks. Tighten any installed pucks 

onto the bottom of the cartridge snugly so they do not come loose over 

time.

5. Re-install the cartridge by threading it back into the fork crown and 

tighten to 12 Nm.

6. Inflate the air spring as outlined in the previous section. Added Huck 

Pucks will require slightly lower air pressure values to preserve the 

previous sag level. 

The compression adjustment knob is located on the top of the damper-

side fork leg. There are 

8 clicks

 of adjustment. Your fork comes from 

the factory in the first, least damped position.

COMPRESSION ADJUSTMENT

 

As you turn the dial clockwise, you are adding compression 

damping or slowing the forks compression stroke. It is an adjustment 

that is subtle, and often overlooked, but can make a big difference 

in how your fork performs. Aggressive riders tend to like more 

compression damping because it provides a firmer, more supportive 

feel. Comfort oriented, less aggressive riders tend to like less 

damping in order to maximize small bump sensitivity. Do not confuse 

compression damping with spring rate. They are very different 

adjustments, and while adding compression damping may make the 

fork feel “stiffer”, it is not changing the spring rate.

REBOUND ADJUSTMENT

Adjustments to rebound can be made by turning the red knob on the 

bottom of the damper-side fork leg. The total usable range of rebound 

adjustment on the Bartlett is approximately 

20 clicks

.

 

Rebound damping is what prevents your suspension fork from 

feeling like a pogo stick. It controls the rebound stroke of the fork 

after a compression stroke (bump) has occurred. Increasing (turn knob 

clockwise) rebound damping slows the rebound stroke of the fork. 

Decreasing (turn knob counter clockwise) rebound damping speeds up 

the rebound stroke of the fork. Ideally, you want to arrive at a setting 

that allows your wheel to track the terrain and not get bounced off line.

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