INSTALLATION
If your loco has a NMRA 8 pin receptacle, simply remove the dummy plug and
match first pin and plug in the decoder. Otherwise it is quite a challenge to install a
decoder into a loco. You should have some basic electrical knowledge and
soldering skills. If you do not have the above requirements, please ask the dealer
for help in installation.
Figure 1 shows the electrical circuit of most standard locos. The terminals of the
motor and light(s) are directly connected to the wheel pickup. Each type of loco
has its own method of electrical pickup and distribution. The connection between
the wheels, motor and light(s) could be wires, clips, the body or chassis, PC
board or any other type of conductor. First, figure out your loco’s electrical wiring
and how to disconnect (isolate) the motor and light(s).
Note: The ‘X’ marks indicate
where to disconnect (isolate).
Figure 2 shows how to wire the decoder. After disconnecting the motor terminals
from the pickup, connect the red wire to the right side pickup and the black wire to
the left side pickup. Connect the orange wire to the motor terminal that was
originally connected to the right pickup. Connect the gray wire to the motor’s other
terminal. Connect the front light to the blue wire and the white wire. Connect the
rear light to the blue wire and the yellow wire.
The blue wire is the common terminal for lights and accessory functions. You may
use the black wire or the red wire to replace the blue wire. This is useful when
isolating one of the light terminals from the pickup is difficult. Wiring the bulb this
way will make the light dimmer. If your loco has only a front light, you should
connect the white and the yellow wires together.
OPERATION
There are 2 whistle sounds and three air pump sounds for you to choose.
The choice of air pump sound is for randomly played sounds when the loco is
at idle. If using the MRC Prodigy Advance DCC System, you can use F19 to
scroll through two different whistle.
Synchronizing Steam Chuff needs to program CV #120 (chuff rate) and CV
#121 (chuff start point). It may take many times to try to get a perfect
synchronization.
F12 or double click F0 will turn the steam sounds on or off. When the steam
sounds are turned off, all accessory function sounds will also be turned off.
You can use F6 to turn the steam chuff sounds on or off. When the loco is
drifting the chuff should be off. On real steam loco, once they are up to
speed the engineer will shut off power to conserve steam and fuel.
There are many more program features available with this decoder. Please
refer to the CV Chart to explore other features of the decoder.
STEAM SOUNDS / ACCESSORY FUNCTION CHART
NOTE:
Due to limitations in some types of DCC systems or older DCC
systems, some of the sound/accessory functions may not be able
to be accessed. Also, you might be limited to factory default CV
settings.
Each manufacturer and loco may have different ways of decoder
installation. There is no standard rule for installing decoders. It is
always better to consult the loco manufacturer on how to install a
decoder in that particular loco.
All the decoder’s light outputs are track output voltage (around 14V)
supplied by your DCC system. They are designed for 12V light bulbs.
Please contact your loco manufacturer for lights’ operation voltage. If
you have a 1.5V bulb or LED, you should connect a 1k ohm resistor in
series to one of the leads to limit current.
SPEAKER SELECTION
The decoders come with a 28mm 8 ohm speaker. A 20mm or 16x35mm rectangular
speaker can be purchased from MRC. However, reducing speaker size will affect
the overall sound quality. Use hot glue or double-sided sticky tape to affix the
speaker inside the loco shell.
MAKING A TEST TRACK
Before you begin decoder installation, we strongly recommend building a test track
with a 27 ohm resistor to limit current. Only test your installed decoder on the test
track. The test track may prevent damage from an incorrectly installed decoder.
Note: The program track is NOT a test track. The program track does not use a current
limiting resistor. So it will not protect an incorrectly installed decoder.
TEST
The decoders has been factory programmed with address #3, 28/128 speed
steps and maximum top voltage.
Never run the installed decoder on your
layout without first successfully running on test track.
Otherwise, you
may damage the decoder if it is not wired correctly or if you have not properly
isolated the motor and lights.
To test, place the loco on the test track. Select the “Run” mode of your DCC
system and select or acquire address #3. Move up the throttle and the loco should
move forward. Push the light button [F0] and the front headlight should come on.
Change the direction of the loco and the loco should change direction and the rear
headlight (if equipped) should come on. The loco cannot reach full speed, due to
the resistor. If all above occurs, you passed the test. Congratulations!
Do not run the loco for an extended period of time on the test track or
the resistor will overheat.
I
f your installed decoder does not pass the test, find the problem, correct
it and test it again.
Right side pickup
Front
light
Motor
Rear
light
Left side pickup
X X
X
X
X
X
Figure 1. Connection of standard locomotive
Figure 2. 0001629 decoder wiring diagram
1
orange
black
black
black
28mm speaker
with cap
red
orange
gray
yellow
white
left
right
blue
headlight
rear light
DCC base unit
Power supply
Test track
27 ohm resistor
Figure 3. Diagram of test track
Function
Idle/Moving
Double click F0
Sound on/off
F1
Bell on/off
F2
Whistle
F3
Air release
F4
Coupling
F5
Brake squeal
F6
Conductor
F7
Fire box door open/close
F8
airpump
F9
Flange squeal
F10
Water
F11
Blower hiss
F12
chuff sound on/off (drifting)
F13*
Coal auger
F14*
Coupler fire
F15*
Sand drop
F16*
Shoveling
F17*
Short air release
F18*
Injector
F19*
Whistle type select*
* Note: Only MRC Prodigy advance DCC has F13-F19 accessory functions