
Wiring The Rattler:
Strip and tin a 2 ½” piece of hookup wire and solder it to lug #2 of the footswitch and the tip conductor
(marked with a black dot) of the ¼” input jack.
Strip and tin a 2 ½” piece of hookup wire and solder it to lug #5 of the footswitch and the tip conductor
(marked with a black dot) of the ¼” input jack.
Strip and tin a 4” piece of hookup wire and solder it to lug #6 of the footswitch and lug #2 of the 10kΩ
potentiometer.
Strip and tin a 2” piece of hookup wire and solder it to lug #7 of the terminal strip and lug #1 of the 1kΩ
potentiometer. Use the heatsink on the transistor when soldering lug #7 of the terminal strip.
Strip and tin a 1” piece of hookup wire and solder it to lug #1 and lug #4 of the footswitch.
Solder the negative (black) lead of the 9 volt battery clip to lug #4 of the terminal strip. Solder the posi-
tive (red) lead to the ring lug (marked with a red dot) of the ¼” input jack.
Final Assembly:
Connect a 9 volt alkaline battery to the battery clip. Wrap the battery in the supplied tolex cloth and
place it at the bottom of the Rattler, below the footswitch.
Visually inspect all solder connections. Are they clean and solid? Are any parts, leads, or wires touching
where they shouldn’t be?
Place the chassis bottom place in position and fasten it with the supplied screws.
Turn the Rattler over and fasten the chicken-head knobs to the potentiometer shafts. Use trial and er-
ror to determine the proper range of movement. Tighten the chicken-head set-screws (don’t over-tighten
please).
Warning:
The Rattler is one vicious beast of a box. It will scare your friends, irritate neighbors, and blow
away chumps using those other wimpy boxes. Use with discretion!
Содержание The Rattler
Страница 1: ...Assembly Instructions TM KITS DIY...
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Страница 8: ...The Rattler Schematic...