Affix the Lower Runners
15.
To mount the runners (J, K) that guide the sides and bottoms of
the drawers, set the table base on its back and align the drawers in
their openings. Set them tight to the bottom edge of the opening in the
apron, with an even gap on each side.
16.
Set the drawer runners in place and mark their outside edges
on the front and back aprons (Fig. 6). Mark where the ends of the
drawer runners join the front and back apron pieces. Leave a 1/32"
gap between the runners and the sides of the drawers. Hammer finish
nails through the aprons and into the drawer runners to hold them
in place. Use a nail set to drive the nailheads slightly below the surface.
Fill the nail holes with wood putty.
17.
Finish the drawer assembly after the final topcoat is dry. Slide the
drawer bottoms (M) into their grooves and then fasten them with two
4d finish nails driven into the drawer backs.
18.
Attach the knobs to the drawer fronts and pivoted stops to the
backs of the drawers. The stops are 1"x 3" pieces of 1/4" plywood.
Attach them with a single pan-head screw and a washer (see Drawer
Section View, Fig. 2).
19.
Reattach the top to the base with table fastener brackets (Fig 6).
Leave a 1/16" space between the fasteners and the aprons to allow the
top to expand. Turn the rear drawer stops horizontal so you can slide
the drawers in place. Then turn the stops downward so the drawers
won’t fall out when you open them.
STAINING AND FINISHING
Woodworker’s Tip: Though you may be tempted to cut short
your sanding, preparation and application time, don’t do it.
These tasks are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality
finish. Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and
smoothness of the parts that will have great bearing on how
people judge your craftsmanship. To ensure an excellent result,
follow the steps listed in this section and also the instructions
the finish manufacturer puts on its products.
FINISHING TIPS
• Test the stains and finishes you are planning to use on scraps of
wood. On the back of the scrap, mark the stain/finish combination
and the type of wood. Allow all samples to dry thoroughly before
making your final finish selection. Save your samples for quick
reference on future projects.
• All stains and finishes must be allowed to dry thoroughly between
coats. Remember that drying times can vary due to humidity and
other climatic conditions.
• If you have some leftover stain or finish, wipe the can rim so that
stain or finish in the rim won’t dry out and prevent the lid from
forming a tight seal.
• Brushes used for water-based products, such as Minwax
®
Water-
Based Wood Stains or Minwax
®
Polycrylic
®
Protective Finish, must
be cleaned with soap and water; oil-based finishes must be cleaned
with mineral spirits.
20.
Sand all pieces starting with 120-grit paper, then move up to 220-
grit to complete the pre-finish smoothing. Use an orbital sander to
remove any marks or scratches, then lightly sand by hand using with-
the-grain sanding strokes. Dust off the piece and wipe it carefully with
a clean, lint-free cloth lightly dampened with mineral spirits.
Recommended Finish
21.
Apply the Minwax
®
Wood Finish
™
you’ve chosen to the interior
surfaces using a natural-bristle brush and a clean, lint-free cloth
following the directions on the can. The brush will help you get the
stain into the many inside corners and other tight spots. Allow the
Wood Finish
™
to set for about 5 to 15 minutes, then wipe off any
excess. To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a second coat after
4-6 hours, repeating the application directions for the first coat.
Allow the stain to dry for 24 hours before applying the protective
clear finish.
Woodworker’s Tip: Different species of wood take to stain dif-
ferently. When using a combination of woods like oak and birch,
you may need to apply a second or third coat to birch to achieve
a uniform finish. When wiping off stain, make certain that your
last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood. This
way, any stain you might miss during wipe-off will be visually
minimized by the wood grain.
22.
Apply Minwax
®
Wipe-On Poly following the directions on the can.
Shake the can thoroughly. Apply a liberal amount of Wipe-On Poly on a
clean, soft, lint-free cloth into the wood. It can be brushed on or wiped
on with a cloth. Allow the first coat to dry for at least 4 hours.
23.
Once completely dry, sand all surfaces very lightly with 220-grit
or finer sandpaper or very fine (000) steel wool using with-the-grain
strokes. Thoroughly wipe off all surfaces with a soft cloth. Apply a
second coat of Minwax
®
Wipe-On Poly and set the piece aside to dry
for at least 4 hours.
24.
Once completely dry, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit or finer
sandpaper or very fine (000) steel wool. Thoroughly wipe off the piece
with a soft cloth and apply a third and final coat of Wipe-On Poly. Allow
the table to cure for several days before using it.
Woodworker’s Tip: For an ultrasmooth finish, use 400-grit
sandpaper to apply the final coat of Minwax
®
Wipe-On Poly.
Alternate Finish
25.
Before applying Minwax
®
Water-Based Wood Stain to a hardwood
or softwood, apply Minwax
®
Pre-Stain Water-Based Wood Conditioner
following the directions on the can. This will help to ensure even
absorption of stain and prevent blotchiness that can occur with some
woods. After 1 to 5 minutes, wipe off all excess conditioner using a
clean, soft cloth. Wait 15 to 30 minutes then use 220-grit or finer sand-
paper to sand off any “whiskers” raised by the conditioner. Proceed to
the staining within 2 hours.
26.
Do the staining in two steps, starting on the interior surfaces and
then do to the exterior surfaces. Apply the Minwax
®
Water-Based
Wood Stain you’ve chosen to the table using either a nylon/polyester
brush or a cloth. Allow stain to penetrate no longer than 3 minutes.
While stain is still wet, wipe off all excess with a clean cloth that’s been
lightly dampened with stain. Allow the piece to dry for 2 hours before
–4–
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT SIDE TABLE
