––
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED pROjECT 2009-2010 pATIO TABLE
Glue the Top Assembly
26.
Chamfer all the top edges of the slats, outer ring and hub with a
sanding block. The chamfer creates a detail that’s visually pleasing
while it disguises any areas where a joint may be less than perfect.
27.
Mix about 4 oz. of slow-set epoxy. Glue the slats to the outer ring
first. Align the center of every other slat with a joint on the outer ring.
Eyeball the gaps between slats. Be sure to wet both the slot and tongue
before inserting. Scoop up any squeeze-out that is hard to get at with a
cotton-tipped swab and then wipe the area with acetone.
28.
Coat the rabbets on the slats and the hub with epoxy. Carefully
position the hub in the rabbets. Then clamp it in position with a screw.
29.
After the epoxy has thoroughly cured add the struts and braces
(D, E and F) to the underside of top (see Fig. 1).
30.
Use a hole saw to bore a 2-1/4" hole through the center of the hub.
Build the Lower Ring
31.
Make a hardboard pattern of a lower ring segment (G, see
Fig. 11). Use the pattern to trace four pieces onto the stock.
32.
Cut the miters on a miter saw and band saw the curves. Place the
four sections together and check the fit.
33.
Rout a pair of 1/4" x 1-1/2" -deep slots into each miter. Epoxy the
ring together with splines (L).
34.
Once the epoxy has set, sand the inside of the ring with a sanding
drum and the outer edge with a belt sander. Label the top and bottom
of the ring.
35.
Lay out the leg positions on the ring and drill holes for dowels and
screws on the drill press.
Assemble the Base
36.
Make patterns for the upper (H) and lower (J) legs (see Fig.11).
Rough-cut the legs with your band saw then attach a pattern and rout
with a pattern bit.
37.
Clamp a pair of hand screws on the lower ring along the leg layout
lines. Slip an upper leg snugly between the hand screws. Use a 1/8" bit
to drill a pilot hole into the upper leg, using the 5/32" hole in the ring
as a guide.
38.
Lock the leg in place with a #8 x 3" screw.
39.
Drill two 1/2"-dia. x 1"-deep dowel holes into the upper leg
(see Fig. 1).
40.
Remove the upper leg but keep the hand screws in place.
Insert the lower leg, secure with a screw and drill the dowel
holes. Repeat the process for each set of legs.
41.
Cut your dowels 1/8" shy of the total depth of the hole. Sand a
slight flat on one edge to give the excess epoxy an escape route.
Woodworker’s Tip:
If your dowel stock is a little tight, try spin-
ning the dowel in a drill as you sand lightly with 80-grit sandpaper
to reduce the diameter.
42.
Dry fit a lower leg on the ring with dowels.
43.
Drill a 1/4" pilot hole all the way through the ring and the lower
leg for the lag bolt (see Fig. 1).
44.
Remove the lower leg and repeat the process for the upper leg
using a 3/16" bit. Do not drill all the way through!
45.
Use a Forstner bit to drill a 3/4"-dia. counter bore in the lower leg
that’s deep enough to hide the lag screw head and washer.
46.
Mix the epoxy and fasten one pair of lower and upper legs to the
ring. Be sure to wet each hole and dowel. Drive a lag screw from the
lower leg through the ring and into the upper leg until it draws tight.
Repeat for all the legs and let the epoxy fully cure.
Final Assembly
47.
Cut tabletop fastener plates (K) from 1/8"-thick steel. Prime
plates with a rustproof paint.
48.
Attach the fastener plates to the tops of the upper legs, then flip
the leg assembly upside down and drill pilot holes for the lag bolts.
Attach the top with lag bolts and washers.
49.
Mount the tabletop to the base.
pROtectinG yOuR pROject
Any type of wood that’s used outdoors needs protection from water
damage. There are a variety of protective coatings available, includ-
ing clear and tinted wood protectors and semi-transparent and solid
stains. Each of these finishes has a different look and maintenance
requirement.
To provide complete protection for your project, use Thompson’s
®
WaterSeal
®
Advanced Tinted Wood Protector or Thompson’s
®
WaterSeal
®
Waterproofer Plus Tinted Wood Protector. Both products not only pre-
vent water damage, but also resist damage from mildew and ultraviolet
radiation in sunlight (UV), and they exceed industry standards for
waterproofing on wood. Plus, the transparent tint will give plain pine
just the right amount of rich wood-tone. These products are available
in four beautiful sheer wood-tones.
Woodworker’s Tip:
Always be sure to choose a waterproofer that
claims to exceed industry standards for waterproofing on wood.
