E. SAW OPERATION
D. DUST COLLECTOR ATTACHMENT
1. CROSS CUTTING
Cross cutting is a cut across the short dimension
of a piece of wood (usually across the grain).
Remove rip fence and ALWAYS USE MITER
GAUGE WHEN CROSS CUTTING. Adjust blade
height so it is approximately 1/16" above the
wood. Hold the wood securely against the face
of the miter gauge with one hand. Grasp the
miter gauge lock knob with the other hand, keep-
ing your hand away from the blade. Push wood
and miter gauge slowly past the blade. Before
making another cut, remove any loose pieces of
wood from the table using the end of a push
stick. Should any pieces get caught in the blade
guard or in the slot in the table top, unplug cord
before removing. For angle cuts, set the
desired angle on the miter gauge and handle
the wood in the same manner as described
above. For precision angular cuts, use a
protractor or other angle measuring device to
set the angle of the miter gauge.
To support extra long stock when cross cutting,
pull out the table extension and swing extension
support leg down.
2. RIPPING
Ripping is a cut along the long dimension of a
piece of wood (usually with the grain). Remove
miter gauge and ALWAYS USE THE RIP
FENCE WHEN RIPPING. Select a piece of wood
that is flat and has at least one straight edge.
The wood should be checked by holding it
against a flat surface to see if it rocks or if any
large gaps of light can be seen under it. If the
edge is not straight, correct it with a hand plane
or sandpaper. If the wood does not have a
straight edge to ride along the rip fence it can
bind and cause a kickback. Always feed the
piece being cut completely through and past the
blade. Never release the stock while it is still
touching the blade. A kickback may result. Feed
work past the blade slowly. If the blade slows
down, you are feeding too fast. Use two push
sticks, one in each hand, to push short or narrow
workpieces past the blade. Use one stick to push
the stock and hold it down to the table. Use the
other push stick to hold the stock against the
fence. Set the width of the piece to be cut by
measuring from the offset tip of the blade tooth
to the rip fence. Tighten front locking knob on rip
fence to square it to the blade and to lock it in
place, then tighten rear locking knob.
Connect vacuum cleaner hose to vacuum port at back of saw. Use rubber adapter
included, if necessary, to accommodate variations in hose diameter.
C. CHANGING BLADE ANGLE AND BLADE HEIGHT
Never change angle of blade with saw running.
1. CHANGING ANGLE OF BLADE
Loosen locking knob and angle adjusting knob by turning
counterclockwise. Move angle locking knob until blade
is set to desired angle. Then turn both knobs clockwise
to lock.
2. CHANGING HEIGHT OF BLADE
Loosen locking knob by turning counter-
clockwise. Turn blade height knob clockwise
to raise blade and counterclockwise to lower
blade. Then turn locking knob clockwise to lock.
F. SAW BLADES AND CUTTING SPEEDS
Refer to chart on page 4
1. A NOTE ABOUT SAW BLADES:
Because your saw is powerful at slow speeds, it is capable of
cutting soft metals. However, keep in mind that even carbide
tipped saw blades will become dull and wear much faster when
cutting metal. For example, you could cross cut a 3/4" x 3/4"
bar of aluminum with the carbide blade, but you could do the
same with an inexpensive blade in a hack saw. In other words,
don't waste a $30.00 blade on a cut that could be made with a
$1.00 blade.
2. A NOTE ABOUT DC MOTORS AND SPEED VARIATION:
During use you may find that the minimum blade speed will not
always be consistent. At some times the slowest speed will be
faster than it is at other times. This is an inherent characteristic of
variable speed DC motors with load compensation circuitry. In
most cases the blade speed will return to its slowest speed once
the circuitry is put under load (when the cut is started). This varia-
tion can also be minimized by turning the speed control knob as
slowly as possible when changing from one speed to another.
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