Matchless 1964 G12 650, Инструкция

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To adjust the chain place cycle on the stand and slightly slacken the spindle end nut and
also slightly slacken the brake drum dummy spindle lock nut the hexagon of which Is
adjacent to the spindle end nut on de-luxe models. Then slacken back the adjuster screw
lock nut on each side and unscrew each adjuster bolt in turn to exactly the same extent
until the correct chain tension is obtained. While on the stand the chain whip should
be 1
8
" (see note below). Then fully re-tighten spindle nuts and also the adjuster screw
lock nuts. Chain whip must always be checked midway between the two sprockets and
the rear wheel should always be turned to obtain the position of least slackness. This is
because chains rarely wear evenly and there is usually one position at which the chain is
tighter than at any other. It is at this position that the adjustment check should be made.
NOTE—The chain adjustment specified while cycle is on the stand is reduced to ½" when
the wheel is on the ground and the rider seated. This is due to chain sprocket
centres varying slightly as the result of movement of the rear swinging arm.
NOTES O N REAR C H A I N ADJUSTMENT
Before tightening the rear chain always first check front chain adjustment and if attention
is necessary adjust the front chain first. This is because adjustment of the front chain
disturbs that of the rear chain.
Therefore after making adjustment to the tension of the front chain always afterwards
check that of the rear chain.
It should also be noted that adjusting the rear chain will disturb rear brake adjustment
which should therefore always be checked subsequently.
The correct chain adjustment must be maintained, when a complete chaincase is fitted,
otherwise the chain will make contact with the case. Remove rubber grummet in the
case to check chain tension.
R E M O V I N G A N D REFITTING REAR C H A I N
To protect the rear chain from mud and water it is very closely shrouded by the chain
guard and removing the chain without first detaching the chain guard can present con-
siderable difficulty. A simple procedure however is as follows.
First obtain a piece of thin string about ten feet long.
With cycle on the stand turn the rear wheel until the chain connecting link is at a position
near the rear sprocket and remove the connecting link.
Now pass the string through the centre hole of the end link of the top run, draw the two
ends of the string level and tie together.
Then pull the bottom run of the chain backwards with one hand while keeping the string
taut at the rear end with the other hand.
As the end of the top run of the chain disengages with the gear box sprocket it will leave
the string attached lying one strand each side of the sprocket teeth.
When the chain Is well clear cut the string on one side only at a point about one foot from
where it is looped through the chain link.
Leave the string then in situ awaiting chain re-fitting.
To re-fit the chain
Pass the longer cut end of the string through the centre hole of the end chain link and
then tie the two loose ends of the string together.
Then pull the string from the rear end at the same time guiding the chain up to engage
with the gear box sprocket.
Continue pulling until the chain encircles the rear wheel sprocket when remove the
string and refit the connecting link taking care while doing so to attach the spring clip
with its closed end facing the direction of rotation.
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