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The Ibanez® Tube Screamer™ is probably the most well known and widely used overdrive in the history of 
guitar effects pedals. Vintage TS units can fetch several hundred dollars on the used market while new units 
remain cheap and plentiful. The Green Bean is based on the vintage unit, known as the 808, however it 
incorporates several mods to increase its flexibility and tonal range. 

The 2015 version in a new layout. The two toggle switches have moved to a more convenient location and the 
Tone knob has moved to one side. 
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There are two versions listed from you to choose from . The Stock values give the original TS in all its glory. 
The "madbean" version is the one I always build. Here is an explanation of why I choose the different values. 

R1

 - This pulldown resistor is not needed on the Tube Screamer since it is a buffered bypass (not present in 

the Green Bean). In the absence of the buffer bypass, a pulldown decreases the chance for any popping when 
the foot-switch is engaged. 

R3, R13

 - These resistors do two things: set the input impedance on the input and output buffer transistors and 

provide current to the transistor bases. The value here is not terribly critical so I use 470k because it's more 
common. You could even go up to 1M if you wanted but I probably would not go higher than that (if the 
resistance is too high the resistors may not provide adequate current to the transistor base for proper 
operation). Conversely, you would not want to use too low of a value for these....there is no reason to go below 
470k. 

R7 

- The value of this resistor sets the minimum gain when the Gain knob is all the way down. I use 47k 

because it is a more common value. It will lower the minimum gain slightly but almost imperceptibly. 

C1

 - Who has a 20n film cap? Not me. 47n also lets a little more bass into in the circuit. 27n is another popular 

alternative. 

C3 

- I use 100pF instead of 51pF because it smoothes out the high frequency range a bit more when the Gain 

pot is all the way up. This helps balance out the Tone pot, IMO (the Tone pot at full up can get a little "ice-
pickey" with some guitars). 

D1 - D6

 - The vintage TS used two back to back silicon diodes for symmetrical clipping. This is fine. It is also 

boring. The madbean version instead uses the silicon diodes asymmetrically and gives the option for a 
different pair of diodes for symmetrical clipping. I generally use LEDs for the symmetrical clipping, but you can 
use anything you like here; silicon, LED, germanium, etc. 

Q1, Q2

 - Since these two transistors are used as buffers the actual transistor we use is not critical (IOW one 

particular type does not impart any magic tone more than another). The only thing that matters here is that they 
are reasonably low noise and reliable. So, I pick the more common C-B-E pinout type rather than the 2SC1815 
which is E-C-B (note if you use 2SC1815 on the GreenBean you are going to have to twist the transistor leads 
around). I generally use either 2N5088/89 or BC550 (these have the opposite pinout from the 2N5088). The 
BC550 does seem to be slightly lower noise but that is purely anecdotal. 

VOL

 - Just a personal preference. I like audio taper for the volume control more than the linear type. YMMV. 

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Other Mods 

The

 Fat

 switch changes between the stock clipping frequency cap (47n at C4) and a larger value cap (120n at 

C5). This increases the bass response of the overdrive by moving the mids emphasis of the Tube Screamer™ 
clipping from around 720Hz down to approximately 282Hz. This is what could be considered the lower 

Содержание Green Bean

Страница 1: ...als 2015 version 1 95 W x 1 95 H Terms of Use You are free to use purchased Green Bean circuit boards for both DIY and small commercial operations You may not offer Green Bean boards for resale or as part of a kit in a commercial fashion Peer to peer re sale is of course okay ...

Страница 2: ...adbean version Resistors Caps Diodes IC Transistors Switches Pots R1 omit C1 20n D1 D3 your choice R2 1k C2 1uF D4 D5 1n914 R3 510k C3 51pF D6 1N5817 R4 10k C4 47n R5 10k C5 120n IC1 JRC4558 R6 4k7 C6 220n R7 51k C7 220n Q1 Q2 2SC1815 R8 1k C8 1uF R9 10k C9 100n FAT On On R10 220R C10 1uF AS SYM On On R11 1k C11 100uF R12 1k C12 100n TONE 20kW R13 510k C13 47uF DRIVE 500kA R14 10k VOL 100kB R15 10...

Страница 3: ... 1 4W 1M 2 Metal Carbon Film 1 4W 100pF 1 Ceramic Film Mica 25v min 47n 2 Film 25v min 100n 2 Film 25v min 120n 1 Film 25v min 220n 2 Film 25v min 1uF 3 Film 25v min 47uF 1 Electrolytic 25v min 100uF 1 Electrolytic 25v min 1n914 3 D4 D5 2 LED Germanium Silicon 1N5817 1 JRC4558 1 or other Si 2 2N5088 89 or BC550 On On 2 SPDT solder lugs 20kW 1 PCB Right Angle 16mm 500kA 1 PCB Right Angle 16mm 100kA...

Страница 4: ......

Страница 5: ...5 1590B Drill Guide 4 44 W x 6 46 H ...

Страница 6: ...6 Wiring Guide Pots switches and indicator LED are soldered directly to the PCB ...

Страница 7: ...ommon value It will lower the minimum gain slightly but almost imperceptibly C1 Who has a 20n film cap Not me 47n also lets a little more bass into in the circuit 27n is another popular alternative C3 I use 100pF instead of 51pF because it smoothes out the high frequency range a bit more when the Gain pot is all the way up This helps balance out the Tone pot IMO the Tone pot at full up can get a l...

Страница 8: ...iodes This is the same as the Comp Cut mode on the Fulldrive 2 The two toggle switches while better located now as still fairly close to the Gain knob For this reason I suggest not using HUGE knobs for this build 1 2 3 4 diameter should be fine Lastly you can go up to 1MA on the Gain pot for more overdrive This tends to make less difference on the 1n914 diodes since they are fairly saturated at 54...

Страница 9: ...9 Hey you liar You said you use 100kA for VOL True but I was also out of them when I did this verification build The blue LED s I picked kinda suck so I will be changing those too It was worth a try ...

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