Page 2
Now you will be removing the logic board so you can get to the underside where the LCD is clipped in. This
can be a little tricky because you need to be very careful not to bend or damage the battery contacts - very
flimsy and easy to bend up.
9. You’ve already removed the three screws that were holding the board down to the rear casing and now
you need to use a pry tool to lift up on the logic board at the opposite side of the USB near the battery
compartment. Once again, be very careful with that “L” shaped board end where the battery contacts are
and be aware of the two charging contact wires that are connected to the board and to the back case. As
you begin to lift the board out, do not try to pull it completely from the back case! You will rip the wires from
the solder pads. Pry up very lightly to pop the board off the screw post near the battery compartment. Now
the board is held on by the USB port sticking through the side and where the board sits over the two screw
posts that are sticking up through the board also, Pry up slightly on the battery compartment side and then
take another tool and pry up just enough to pop the board loose from the screw posts. The board may still
be wedged in where the USB port sticks out of the case. Wiggle it out by pulling gently and lifting. But re-
member! Watch out for the two soldered charging contact wires! Of course, while all this is going on, you’re
still struggling with a 3.5” LCD flopping around and still attached!
10. Finally, with the logic board removed from the back casing as much as it can be, fold it open holding the
screen against the logic board using the two soldered wires as a hinge, now it folds open like an accordion.
Start by putting the back case as far up as you can on the table and fold the logic board toward you while
folding the screen out face down.
11. Now you’ve exposed the big ribbon cable clamp. Opening it can be a little tricky. Use a thin edge tool - a
knife or pry tool edge to work both sides toward the middle. It is very delicate and easy to break so take
your time. Do not try to pull the clamp off entirely! Only lift is slightly until it stops! Remove the old LCD
and pay attention to to which side (top of bottom) of the ribbon cable has the metal contacts. The new LCD
should be orientated in the same way - with the contacts positioned properly. Don’t install the LCD upside
down! Insert the cable into the connector. Then you can gently push the connector back in.
12. Fold the cable and the LCD against the case and repeat all the steps backwards.
13. Fitting the board back over the 2 screw pins and the USB port into the hole can be tricky, especially while
watching out for the battery contacts. You may need to wiggle, push, etc. Make sure that everything is
seated firmly in place and the board is flat.
14. Put the “hard key” logic board back in place.
15. The case pops back together very easily, but make sure the two plastic emitter lenses are back in place
(they fall out easily) and also make sure you’ve popped the rubber USB port cover tab in place also.
16. Replace the 4 screws and you’re good to go!
Questions? Need additional help? Contact us at
H1100 Rev. 10/16
