StormBoost v1.0
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4
Building sequence
Soldering this board can be very complicated for some people since the solder pads are very close
together. Use a magnifying glass to make the job easier.
Do not blow on your solder in an attempt to cool it down. That will possibly result in a bad join that
might corrode!
If you want to experiment with other diodes (
D1
-
D4
) then you could socket them instead of soldering
them to the board. You’ll need a 20 SIL, break off the sockets and solder them to the board.
Note:
Glass diodes are fragile. Do not expose
them to heat for too long or they’ll break!
Start by soldering the jumper (if needed), resistors and then the diodes (if not socketed). Solder the
IC sockets next and then the small SMF/MKT capacitators, the DIP switch, and finish with the
electrolytes.
Do not yet place the IC (and diodes if socketed). Wait until after you soldered the potentiometers
and switches.
Besides the components mentioned in the table on the previous page, you will need:
•
2 input jacks
. 2 mono jacks if you are not going to use a battery but only the 9V adapter. 1
mono (for output) and 1 stereo jack (for input) if you will be using both a 9V battery and the
9V adapter.
•
3PDT footswitch
(9 pins)
•
2,1mm DC jack
(isolated).
•
9v battery clip
(optional).
•
22 gage stranded hook-up wire.
•
LED and LED flange.
•
Hammond 125B
case (or similar) in your favorite color. If you need more space, use a
Hammond 1590BB.
Содержание StormBoost
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