Hazy Octave v1.0
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7
Modifications
The layout of the board is made to incorporate as much modifications as possible. If you want to get
as close as possible to the original than leave out VR1 (pre-gain) and short pads 2 and 3. Also do not
install R1, R12, C8, C9 and the octave switch SW1 and just short both pads of SW1 and C8.
D1 and D2 need to be Germanium diodes. Preferably 1N34A or alternatively 1N270. It’s been
mentioned that you should try to match the forwarding voltages of both diodes for an optimal result.
The Boost is reported to perform best with a 100uF in C5. Alternatively you can try a 22uF in C5. If
you want to experiment with different values as C5 then solder 2 SIL pins in C5.
You can also use different mixes of transistors. I encourage you to experiment with this because it is
always a taste question. Some mixed will differ more profound than others. Mixes you could try for
Q1, Q2 and Q3:
2N3906 and 2N2222A (2x)
2N5087 and 2N4401 (2x)
2N5087 and 2N5088 (2x)
Troubleshooting
All PCB’s have been 100% factory e-tested and out of every batch I receive I build an effect to double
check, so there should not be a connection problem on the PCB itself.
The board is not working (at all), what now?
Check if your 9V is plugged in correctly (and/or soldered correctly on the board).
Check that you oriented the capacitors, IC’s ,transistors and diodes the right way. SMF, MKT
and ceramic capacitors as well as resistors do not need to be oriented.
Check if you used the correct values of the components. For resistors you can look here:
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Electronics/Color/
Double and triple check your soldering! A loose or cold solder can be really bad for your
board.
Replace the IC, it might be defective. Before doing that first unplug the 9V and wait for 5
seconds.
Check that you have good/high grade components. A lot of Chinese sourced parts are fakes
(especially high end opamps, vintage diodes and transistors) so be careful that you source
your parts from reliable suppliers.
Содержание Hazy Octave
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