Busta Noise v1.0
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5
Build sequence
Soldering this board can be very complicated for some people since the solder pads are very close
together. Use a magnifying glass to make the job easier.
The trick to soldering a PCB is to work from small to big components. My building sequence
suggestions in this section are based on the parts I used myself. Sometimes some components are
smaller (or bigger) so always use your own common sense and change the order accordingly. Usually
capacitors can differ a lot in size depending on their rating and value.
Note:
Do not blow on your solder in an attempt to cool it down. That can result in a bad join that
might corrode! Also take extra care not to short components.
Start by soldering the resistors and diodes. Socket the IC’s . Wait with placing the IC’s to once you are
finished with all soldering and off board wiring!
Now continue by soldering the MLCC, SMF and MKT capacitors and finish with soldering the the
Electrolytics.
I suggest you now drill the holes in your enclosure so you can use it during the off board wiring.
Note:
Really take some time to determine where to place the pot, switch, jacks and PCB in the
enclosure before you start drilling. Measure twice, drill once.
You are almost ready to rock, well… not really. The difficult part starts now.
Besides the components mentioned in the components table, you will need:
1 mono input jack, 1 stereo jack,
or 2 mono jacks if you are not planning on using a battery
3PDT footswitch
(9 pins)
2,1mm DC jack
(isolated).
22 gage stranded hook-up wire.
LED holders.
This enables you to mount the LEDs in the enclosure.
LED (3mm or 5mm depending on your taste).
These are the status LEDs
Hammond 1590B
case (or similar) in your favorite color.
Содержание Busta Noise
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