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TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR
Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old
one did not make. Because the sounds are new to you,
you might be concerned about them. Most of the new
sounds are normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls
and cabinets, can make the sounds seem louder than
they actually are. The following list describes the kinds of
sounds and what may be making them.
• The defrost timer will click when the automatic defrost
cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or
refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also
click when cycling on and off.
• Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant,
the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator.
• Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently
to keep your food items at the desired temperature.
The high efficiency compressor may cause your new
refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and you
may hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound.
• You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the
air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
• As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound
due to the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator.
• Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may
cause a popping noise.
• Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost
cycle may cause a sizzling sound.
• You may hear air being forced over the condenser by
the condenser fan.
• You may hear water running into the drain pan during
the defrost cycle.
Problem
Possible Causes
Solutions
REFRIGERATOR
DOES NOT
OPERATE
• The power supply cord is unplugged.
• A household fuse has blown or
circuit breaker tripped.
• The refrigerator control is set to the
OFF position.
• Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle.
• Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper
voltage.
• Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
• Refer to the
“Control Panel Features”
section.
• Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end.
VIBRATION OR
RATTLING NOISE
• The refrigerator is not resting solidly
on the floor.
• Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need
adjusting. See
“Door Alignment”
Section.
LED (LAMP) DO
NOT WORK
• The power supply cord is unplugged.
• LED Light has burned out.
• Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper
voltage.
• See the
“Light (LED) Replacement”
section.
COMPRESSOR
MOTOR SEEMS TO
RUN TOO MUCH
• The refrigerator that was replaced
was an older model.
• The room temperature is hotter than
normal.
• The refrigerator was recently
plugged in and the refrigerator
control was set correctly.
• The door is opened often or a large
amount has just been added.
• The refrigerator control was not
set correctly for the surrounding
conditions.
• Modern refrigerators with more storage space
require more operating time.
• The motor will run longer under warm conditions.
At normal room temperatures, expect your motor
to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under
warmer conditions, expect it to run even more
often.
• The refrigerator will take up to 24 hours to cool
completely.
• Adding food and opening the door warms the
refrigerator. It is normal for the refrigerator to
run longer in order to conserve energy, try to get
everything you need out of the refrigerator at once,
keep food organized so it is easy to find and close
the door as soon as the food is removed. See the
“Food Storage Guide”
section.
• See the
“Adjusting Control Settings”
Section.
