TROUBLESHOOTING AND REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS FOR L&L KILNS
troubleshoot-general.pdf
REV: 4/15/2017
Page 13
2017
L&L Kiln Mfg, Inc. 505 Sharptown Rd, Swedesboro NJ 08085 856.294.0077 F:856.294.0070 [email protected] hotkilns.com
ShtO (SHUT-OFF) SETTING
1) This option is used to shut off the automatic feature in
the DynaTrol that holds the hottest part of the kiln at each
segment’s set point until the average of the three (or two)
thermocouples reaches that set point. This can have a
dramatic effect on speed of firing and is worth trying to see
if it helps you if you are having a problem.
2) When you press
OTHER, 4, 4, 3
.
3) Press
OTHER
until
ShtO
is displayed.
4) Pressing
ENTER
here allows you to toggle, using any
number key, between
On
and
OFF
.
5) On means that as soon as the hottest zone gets to the
segment’s set point the entire kiln switches to either the
“hold time” or the next segment. This will result in a quicker
firing.
6)
OFF
means that the DynaTrol will not let the hottest
zone’s temperature rise until the average temperature of
the three zones reaches that segment’s set point. Then the
kiln can begin the “hold time” or the next segment. This will
result in more even firing.
7) When you have the setting you want shown in the display
(On or
OFF
) press
ENTER
.
CPL
will display for a few
seconds and then
IdLE
,
tC2
and current temperature.
PId SETTING
1) This setting generally should be left at its factory default
because it is hard to predict the changes that it will create
in your firing. However, a full explanation is given for more
advanced users who want to experiment with this.
2) This setting comes pre-programmed at the factory for
65%. Basically this setting determines how much help the
middle zone of the kiln gives the bottom zone of the kiln
when the bottom zone is lagging behind during heating.
This comes into play when the bottom zone is on 100% of
the time. With this feature, the middle zone of the kiln will
come on the programmed percent (
Pld
) of the time that
the TOP zone comes on, if the bottom zone is on all the
time. Tests showed that if the bottom was on 100% of the
time, the top zone was generally on 90% of the time, but
the middle zone was on only about 40% of the time. By
programming a higher percent you can greatly speed up
your firings. (you will have to experiment, try the factory
setting 65% then try maybe 100% and compare your
results). Basically the higher the
PId
setting the faster the
firing at the potential price of uneveness.
3) As your elements age firing by firing, this setting will
activate earlier and earlier in the firing because the bottom
will be working at 100% earlier and earlier. This will allow
the artificial inflation of the center’s temperature sooner
and sooner. Because this center is heating based on
mathematics now and not it’s own thermocouple’s reading,
it will have a longer and longer period of time to get hotter
than the top and the bottom. In some cases this can lead
to gross uneveness. You may find yourself dialing down the
PId
to something like 50% or 60%. Remember that if it is
set around 40% (it’s normal operating percentage) or below,
the thermocouple’s reading then will be the control for that
section, not the mathematics of the
PId
feature.
4) When display flashes
IDLe
,
tC2
press
OTHER
see
rSEt
. Press
4, 4, 3.
See
notC
5) Keep pressing
OTHER
to cycle through the menu
options until you get to
PId
.
6) Press
ENTER
. See
PCt
,
0085
cycling.
7) Press any number from
0
to
150
, see the number you
have entered preceded by a zero like
0120
if you entered
120
. Press
ENTER
, see
CPL
or
StOP
for a few
seconds, then
IDLE
, etc.
8) Pressing
ENTER
here allows you set another percent
setting that can help a slow, heavily loaded kiln fire faster.
Change elements to graded elements.
This is an extreme solution for Easy-fire kilns but can be
effective. Contact factory.
KILN HEATS TOO FAST
Relays
1) A stuck relay, meaning that the power relay is stuck
closed, delivering constant power to the elements, can
cause the kiln to heat uncontrolled. If the kiln is still heating
even when no program is firing or even the toggle switch is
off, then you have a stuck relay. Whichever section is still
heating, that is the relay that needs replacing.
Voltage
1) Check your voltage. Some people may have high voltage
like 245 volts where you should nominally have 240 volts.
2) Make sure you don’t have a 208 volt kiln hooked up to a
240 volt circuit. This is dangerous because the kiln will draw
more amps than it is rated for which will overload the power
wires and other components and could cause a fire.
Elements
1) Check element ohms and compare with factory values.
(See CHECKING ELEMENT OHMS later in this section).