8
the manifold assembly as possible. USE A
POTABLE COLD WATER SUPPLY ONLY.
Softened water is preferred as it will extend
the life of the R.O. Membrane.
5. Drain Connection–
The waste water must
go to drain through an anti–siphon air gap.
The air gap is provided for in the base of
thefaucet. If discharging into a utility sink
or standpipe, an air gap of greater than 1"
above the flood rim must be provided.
Do NOT connect the system drain line to
the dishwasher drain or near the garbage
disposal. Backpressure from these units may
cause the air gap to overflow.
SECTION IV. INSTALLATION STEPS
All plumbing should be done in accordance with
state and local plumbing codes.
NOTE
: Some codes may require installation by a
licensed plumber; check with the local plumbing
authority prior to installation.
In restricted under–sink areas, it may be easier to
install the faucet first. Allow adequate tubing lengths
for any final component position.
A. Faucet With Water Quality Monitor Installation
The faucet contains an anti–siphon air gap.
While the system is producing water, the drain
water flows from the R.O., through the air gap
and then to the household drain. The purpose of
the air gap is to prevent water in the drain from
backing up into the R.O. Drinking Water System.
NOTE:
For proper installation the Air Gap Faucet
has a critical level line “CL” marked on its body
and should be mounted so that the “CL” line is at
least one (1) inch (26mm) above the flood level
rim of the sink.
The easiest installation is to use an existing
spray attachment hole. If the spray faucet hole is
not available, then the sink top must be drilled.
Choose a convenient location as described in
Sec. III, C.1, page 7.
1. Mark the location of the center of the faucet
base.
2a. Drilling a stainless steel sink:
•Center punch the hole to provide a starting
point for the drill.
•Start with a smaller drill as a pilot, and then
drill a ½" diameter hole to accept the bolt of
a 1¼" Greenlee Hole Punch (1¼" chassis
punch).
•Clean away any chips.
•Install the punch and tighten the nut to cut
the hole.
•Deburr any sharp edges.
2b. Drilling a porcelain sink:
It is best to use a special 1¼" diameter cutter
designed for porcelain. A carbide tipped
masonry bit is a second choice.
•Place a piece of tape over the area to be
drilled to help prevent chipping.
•Drill a pilot hole for the porcelain cutter.
Use the pilot drill supplied with the kit or a
carbide tipped drill.
•When drilling the 1¼" hole, drill slowly and
carefully; the porcelain chips easily.
•After drilling, clean the area well. Iron filings,
if left in place, can cause rust stains.
2c. Drilling a counter top:
NOTE:
The counter top must be less than
1¼" thick. Treat ceramic tile as porcelain until
the tile is penetrated, then use the carbide
tipped metal cutter.
Formica counter tops may be drilled with a
good 1¼" wood bit; drilling a
3
/
32
" pilot hole
will help keep the bit going straight.
3. Assemble and attach the Faucet, Water
Quality Monitor Faucet Base and tubing
(refer to Fig. 2A & 2B, page 9.)
•Assemble the Body and Spout by removing
the plastic shipping plug from the Body and
then firmly pressing in the Spout.
•Locate the ¼" Black Drain Tubing which is
shipped loose in the box. Connect the Black
Drain Tubing to the ¼" Hose Barb on the
Dispensing Faucet by firmly pressing over
the barb. Allow the tubing to relax, then
press firmly again to insure proper seating.
The end of the Black Drain Tubing that
should be inserted into the "Drain" port on
the R.O. Manifold will have a green drain
restrictor in it. DO NOT attach this end to
the Dispensing Faucet.
