D.
SPARS
The mast and boom
are clear
anodized,
which
protects
the
aluminum from oxidation. Unfortu-
nately, after a period of time, dust,
dirt, smoke, salt, and traffic fumes will
make the surface dull and unsightly.
L-
21
as you spend more and more time enjoy-
ing your
WINDROSE.
In the next few
pages, we will try to cover some of these
details, or at least give you an idea of the
tasks
necessary
to
keep
your
WINDROSE
"ship-shape" and ready for
its next sail. Additional
sailing and
maintenance tips can be found in various
boating
publications.
The NASA
"Mainsheet" publications always have
good tips. (NASA,
Section 26).
A.
FIBERGLASS
SURFACES
Periodic applications of Shackley's
Basic H and fresh warm water with a
deck brush and sponge, followed by
a GOOD hosing will do an excellent
exterior cleaning job. Basic H is a
highly concentrated, biodegradable
cleanser that will add to your popular-
ity around the harbor. At home, Tide
is a possible substitute.
Avoid metal filings or leaving steel or
iron containers on
fiberglass
sur-
faces, as they will leave rust spots.
These spots can be removed with
oxalic acid or Teak-Brite; follow up
with lots of fresh water.
If the gel coat gloss dulls or fades,
wax the SMOOTH SURFACES with
Vista or Meguiar's Mirror Glaze paste
wax. The NON-SKID SURFACES
can be brought back to life with a
lather of Tide or Mr. Clean followed
by LOTS OF FRESH WATER. Sur-
faces that have started to oxidize will
need Meguiar's
Fiberglass
Boat
Cleaner
or DuPont White No. 7
Polishing Compound followed by
waxing. It's a good idea to wax the
hull using a power buffer and paste
wax once a year.
Probably the most definitive book on
this subject is the revised edition of
"Fiberglass Boats' Construction and
Maintenance," by Boughton Cobb,
Jr. through
Yachting
Publishing
Corp., 50 West 44th Street, New
York, N.Y. 10036.
B.
WOOD TRIM AND PARTS
Most exterior wood is teak and can
be kept looking attractive by occa-
sional oiling with teak oil. Should the
teak become bleached, a light sand-
ing with 120 grit paper followed with
teak oil will restore its beauty. If your
rudder
and tiller
are varnished
mahogany, a light sanding and sev-
eral coats of spar varnish can restore
a new look and protect the rudder
from splitting and rot when the var-
nish wears off or becomes checked.
C.
RIGGING
Your new yacht is equipped with
stainless steel standing rigging, and
Dacron running rigging designed to
give you years of trouble-free service.
However, due to normal wear and
tear,
it is recommended
that a
periodic inspection be made on all
fittings and wire. Turnbuckles should
never be neglected and should be
unscrewed from time to time in order
that they don't seize up. Greasing the
turnbuckle threads with a marine lub-
ricant that won't wash away is highly
desirable. Every three months should
be right for the average sailor, but
checking the rigging prior to hoisting
the mast is your best insurance
against rigging and spar failure. Use
a damp cloth to wipe down the side
stays-clean
rigging means clean
sails! Check the entire rig for loose
screws, nuts, bolts, cotter keys, and
chafe which may have resulted from
hard sailing or trailering. A slightly
bent turnbuckle shaft or broken wires
in your shrouds should be replaced
immediately.
Periodically check and rewrap the
swedged and nicro-pressed cable fit-
tings with white marine tape. This will
prevent snagging. Also periodically
check halyards for wear so they can
be replaced when worn so failure
under sail won't occur. Dacron line is
used as it stretches less than Nylon.
When adding to your running rigging,
or when a replacement is needed, we
recommend that you stick with a
braided Dacron line similar to your
original equipment line.
