47
3.
Incorrect tension, particularly if the blade is over tensioned; the tension spring no longer
fulfils its function.
4.
After use it is recommended that you slacken the tension,
especially overnight. (Be sure to
place a clearly visible note on the machine that you have done this.
5.
Misalignment of the flywheels.
6.
Irregularity of flywheel surface, for instance, an accumulation of sawdust while cutting
resinous materials.
You can correct these problems by readjusting the machine, changing the way you operate it
or by changing the blade. Try only one change at a time.
Causes of blade dulling.
1.
Poorly set side guides or rear thrust guide.
2.
Poor tracking.
3.
Wrong blade selection. If the blade is too narrow, it will flex more easily and decrease the
quality of the cut. The blade should also have the correct pitch and width.
4.
The tooth pitch is too fine (too many teeth per inch).
5.
Certain woods will dull a steel blade very quickly, especially tropical hardwoods (teak, koa,
etc.). Other woods with a high silicon content will also dull the blade quickly; even a cut as
short as 6” will cause damage to the blade.
6.
On certain exotic woods, the ends have been
painted. This is done to control the
drying. The paint is very abrasive and
will dull the blade as you cut through it.
It is recommended that you cut the
painted ends off your wood.
Until you become well acquainted with
your saw, it is best to use the contour
(radius) chart to determine which size
blade to use for a specific application.
Radius charts can be found in many
woodworking books, magazine articles
and on blade boxes. They differ slightly
from one another but are good as rough
indicators of how tightly a curve can be
cut with a particular blade. Each blade
saw and operator is different, so it is impossible to make a truly accurate chart. A blade can
cut continuously without backtracking any curve that has a radius as much as or more than is
shown on the chart. For example: a
Using a radius chart.
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