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compound such as Loctite 515. Temporary gaskets may be

fabricated from plastic sealing compound but these should

not be made too thick since the material may be squeezed

into the equipment.

DISCHARGE VALVES

If the cause of poor pump vacuum is not due to leaks or oil

contamination, the next step is to inspect the discharge valves

(see Figure 5). The discharge valves are located at the exhaust

port of each chamber. They should not cause trouble unless they

are mechanically damaged or are prevented from sealing properly

due to foreign matter on the valve seat Under normal pump

usage, the valves should be replaced annually. When the pump is

operating at blank-off without gas ballast, a sharp hydraulic noise

(click) indicates proper valve operation.

The poppet type valve has six flat, washer-like springs which press

against a sealing disk. The disk fits against a seal forming a tight

seal. The springs are maintained in place by a lift stop and the

entire valve is held together by a capscrew. The valves are attached

to the cylinder by means of screws and a hold-down plate.

To inspect the discharge valves, proceed as follows:
1. Drain oil from the pump and remove the separator housing

cover.

2. Unscrew the air/oil separator from the top of the valve deck

cover.

3. Remove the capscrew ive, scoop the oil out of the valve cavity

with a small container. Remove cap screws in valve hold down

plates and lift out valve plates with valves. NOTE: Absence of

oil in this chamber is an indicator of discharge valve leakage.

4. Inspect the valves by snapping the valve disk or lower valve spring away from the valve seat to check for spring tension and

mechanical defects. Inspect the sealing surfaces for dirt or other foreign material. Check that the disk or lower valve spring has

not warped (dish shape) as they must be flat for full contact. If a more careful inspection is required, remove the cap screw(s)

holding the valve together. When reassembling the valve, replace valve components in exactly the same position as before.

SHAFT SEAL ASSEMBLY

Under normal conditions, the shaft seal has a long trouble-free life. It may become worn or scratched on the sealing face by dirty

sealing oil which also lubricates the shaft seal, or it may be damaged by excessive heat due to poor lubrication.

If oil drips from the shaft seal and bearing housing, it is an indication that the shaft seal should be inspected, and replaced as

necessary. The drain plug of the shaft seal and bearing housing should be removed as long as oil is leaking past the shaft seal. If

oil, which has leaked from the shaft seal, is allowed to drain through the bearing it will wash the grease from the bearing and cause

it to fail.

To inspect the seal, proceed as follows:
1.  Remove the pump panels and belts.
2.  Remove the pump pulley and drive key from the shaft.
3.  Remove the shaft bearing and housing. (a) Remove the outboard bearing retainer nut from the shaft. (b) Remove the

capscrews holding the bearing housing and remove it.

4. Inspect the face of the running surface for dirt, scratches, or grooves which might cause leaks into the pump. A smooth shining

carbon face indicates a good seal. A crease across the sealing ring, a dent, or scratch in the running face makes a direct leak

through the seal. Cracks or hardening of the rubber parts indicate that they were exposed to excessive operating temperatures

and need replacement.

ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

CAP

SCREW

LIFT

STOP

LIFT